If Penelope’s vegan Valentine’s treats were not enough, Reynold Poernomo takes it to an other level with these desserts.
Fans of Australian Masterchef will recognise Poernomo as the young guy who could make amazing desserts at the drop of a hat and under pressure.
He got fourth in that competition but it launched his career. He after that opened two dessert bars with his pastry chef mum and has written a cookbook The Dessert Game. So if you are looking to up your game and produce an extra special dessert for Valentine’s Day here are some of his favourites from what he calls his level 1 "taking it easy" basque cheesecake to his level 2 "add a little flair" ruby raspberry and rose tart to the ultimate level 3, "these are even difficult for my chefs" passion berry cheesecake.
Having never trained as a chef, Poernomo, who has been passionate about cooking since he was a child, says he is great example of what you can teach yourself if you are passionate and determined enough.
"It goes to show anyone can follow instructions and therefore anyone can cook. But I want you to take a step further and understand how to create by using these recipes as a foundation and guide.
"Remember it is OK to fail and trying again is what will make you a better cook."
There is always Mother’s Day to aim for.
The Book
This is an extract from The Dessert Game by Reynold Poernomo, photography by Jeremy Simons. Murdoch Books RRP $42.99.
Burnt honey Basque cheesecake
I absolutely love Basque cheesecake, although I had no idea what it was before the 2020 Basque cheesecake trend. In 2019, I went to Copenhagen to do a quick stagiaire at Alchemist 2.0. During my time there, I visited Hart Bageri and ordered a fat slice of cheesecake. Wow! It was insanely delicious, with an incredible, almost mousse-like texture. Little did I know, it was the Basque cheesecake but done differently. Since then, I’ve obsessed about this particular cheesecake that I’d never heard of, and I’ve failed many times in trying to recreate it. Finally, Chelia Dinata, who I helped start up ByCcino Cookies (in Bali), expanded her range, obsessed and experimented on countless Basque cheesecakes until she perfected it. So a very BIG thank you to her for sharing this wonderful recipe, which I’ve added my touches to.
Serves 4
Cheesecake
430g cream cheese, softened
100g white (granulated) sugar
3 eggs
15g plain (all-purpose) flour
270ml thickened (whipping) cream
15ml lemon juice
Seeds of 1 vanilla bean
Method
Preheat the oven to 200degC . Line an 18cm spring-form cake tin with baking paper (I just get a big piece and punch it in to fit the tin).
Put the cream cheese and sugar in a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and mix on medium speed for 5 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, and mix until well combined. Add the flour and mix for a further 3 minutes.
Slowly add the cream, lemon juice and vanilla seeds and mix until smooth and creamy, scraping down the side of the bowl to ensure there are no lumps.
Pour the cheesecake mixture into the tin. Bake for 25-27 minutes — the centre should still be wobbly. Allow the cheesecake to cool to room temperature, then place in the fridge.
Burnt honey glaze
150g honey
50ml water
Method
Put the honey in a small saucepan and cook over medium heat until the edges begin to caramelise and burn a little. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the honey has turned a deep amber, then slowly whisk in the water (be careful not to add the water too quickly as it will bubble and spit). Bring the mixture to a simmer, then turn off the heat and set aside to cool to 35-40degC
Evenly brush the cooled honey glaze over the dark surface of the cheesecake. Remove the cheesecake from the tin and serve chilled.
Note: If the honey glaze is rock hard once its cooled, dilute it with some water. It should have the consistency of liquid glucose. If it’s too firm to brush over the cheesecake, heat it in the microwave for 8-10 seconds to loosen.
Ruby raspberry & rose tart
This gorgeous, intense red tart is full of fragrance and texture. It does take a bit of effort to arrange the berries in an orderly manner, but it adds a note of elegance.
Serves 8
NOTE: Start this recipe a day ahead
Ruby cremeux
½ gelatine sheet (titanium grade)
50ml full-cream milk
150ml single (pure) cream
100g raspberry puree
2 eggs
10g white (granulated) sugar
200g ruby chocolate
Method
Soak the gelatine in cold water to soften.
Combine the milk, cream and raspberry puree in a saucepan and bring to the boil.
Meanwhile, whisk the eggs and sugar in a heatproof bowl until fluffy. Whisk in the hot milk mixture, then pour the mixture back into the pan and cook until it reaches 83degC on a sugar thermometer. Squeeze the excess water from the softened gelatine, add it to the pan with the ruby chocolate and whisk until smooth. Strain the cremeux into a container and refrigerate overnight.
French Earl Grey tart shell
375g plain (all-purpose) flour, plus extra for dusting
200g chilled unsalted butter, cubed
6g French Earl Grey tea, ground to a fine powder
1 egg
1 egg yolk
50g white chocolate
Method
Preheat the oven to 170degC . Place a 20x2cm perforated tart ring on a baking tray lined with baking paper.
Combine the flour, sugar, butter and ground tea in a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix until a sandy texture is formed. Slowly add the egg and yolk and mix until a dough is formed. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Roll out the chilled dough on a lightly floured surface to a thickness of 3-5mm. Drape the dough over the tart ring and tuck in the edges, cutting off the excess. Prick the centre of the tart shell with a skewer a few times. Line the shell with baking paper and fill with baking beads or uncooked rice. Blind bake the shell for 15 minutes. Remove the paper and beads or rice and bake for a further 15 minutes or until golden. Set aside to cool.
Melt the white chocolate in a heatproof bowl in the microwave or over a saucepan of simmering water. Coat the inside of the tart shell with the melted chocolate.
Berry compote
100ml rose wine
150g raspberries, halved
150g strawberries, quartered
85ml water
50ml lemon juice
80g white (granulated) sugar
4.5g pectin NH powder
Method
Combine the rose, berries, water and lemon juice in a saucepan. Cook over medium high heat for 15-20 minutes or until the berries have broken down.
Whisk the sugar and pectin together, then whisk it into the berry mixture and bring to the boil. Remove the pan from the heat. Transfer the berry compote to a container and place in the fridge until needed.
Rosewater jelly
50ml rosewater
100ml water
50g white (granulated) sugar
2g agar
Method
Combine the rosewater, water, sugar and agar in a saucepan and whisk over high heat until boiling.
Transfer the jelly mixture to a small tray or container. Place in the fridge for 10-15 minutes or until set.
Assembly
10 strawberries, cut into eighths
16 raspberries
Dried rose petals, for sprinkling
Transfer the berry compote to a piping bag and pipe it into the tart shell, leaving a 1cm gap from the top edge.
Transfer the ruby cremeux to a piping bag. Pipe a 1cm thick layer of cremeux on top of the berry compote. Place in the fridge to set for 15 minutes.
Cut the rosewater jelly into 5mm cubes.
Arrange the strawberry pieces and raspberries on top of the ruby cremeux. Scatter spoonfuls of the rosewater jelly cubes on top of the berries and garnish with the dried rose petals.
Passion berry cheesecake slice
Here’s a cheesecake recipe that will surely impress. It combines a cheesecake mousse with a lime ganache, blueberry jelly and passionfruit curd. It’s quite a lengthy recipe and a time-consuming process, but the results are stunning and well worth the effort, especially for a celebration or special gathering. The hard work and dedication shows through every layer.
Serves 10
Wheat biscuit base
125g wheat biscuits, crushed
40g unsalted butter, melted
Method
Line a baking tray with baking paper. Place a 36x16cm rectangular stainless steel pastry frame on the tray.
Combine the crushed biscuits and melted butter in a bowl. Tip the mixture into the pastry frame and then press down firmly with an offset palette knife to make it completely flat. Place in the freezer to set.
Lime ganache
150ml single (pure) cream
150g white chocolate
35ml lime juice
20g unsalted butter
Method
Pour the cream into a saucepan and cook over medium heat until simmering. Add the white chocolate, lime juice and butter and whisk until well combined.
Pour a thin layer of ganache into the pastry frame over the wheat biscuit base. Transfer to the freezer until needed.
Cheesecake mousse
1 gelatine sheet (titanium grade)
230g cream cheese, softened
60g white (granulated) sugar
Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
140ml thickened (whipping) cream
Method
Soak the gelatine in cold water to soften.
Beat the cream cheese and sugar in a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment until combined. Whisk in the lemon zest and lemon juice. Squeeze the excess water from the softened gelatine, add it to the cream cheese mixture and whisk until dissolved and well combined. Fold in the cream.
Spread half of the mousse over the lime ganache in an even layer. Put the remaining mousse in the fridge until needed. Return the cheesecake to the freezer while you prepare the blueberry jelly.
Blueberry jelly
1 gelatine sheet (titanium grade)
75g blueberry puree
15g white (granulated) sugar
45ml water
Method
Soak the gelatine in cold water to soften.
Combine the blueberry puree, sugar and water in a saucepan. Squeeze the excess water from the softened gelatine and add it to the pan. Cook over low heat until the gelatine has just dissolved.
Pour the jelly on top of the cheesecake mousse in an even layer, then return it to the freezer to set, ensuring it is level.
Once the jelly is frozen, spread the remaining cheesecake mousse on top of the jelly, ensuring it is level, then transfer to the freezer to set.
Passionfruit curd
100ml strained fresh passionfruit juice
65g butter
1 gelatine sheet (titanium grade)
4 eggs
100g white (granulated) sugar
Method
Combine the passionfruit juice and butter in a saucepan. Cook over medium heat until simmering.
Meanwhile, soak the gelatine in cold water to soften.
Whisk the eggs and sugar in a heatproof bowl until fluffy, then whisk in the hot passionfruit mixture. Place the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and cook, whisking continually, until the mixture is thick. Squeeze the excess water from the softened gelatine, add it to the passionfruit mixture and whisk until dissolved and well combined.
Strain the hot passionfruit curd mixture into a jug and blend with an immersion blender. Set aside until cool.
Spoon small amounts of the passionfruit curd evenly over the cheesecake mousse and spread it out to make a thin layer of curd. There should be 5mm of space left at the top of the pastry frame. Return the cheesecake to the freezer.
Transfer any excess passionfruit curd into a piping bag.
Note: Any left-over passionfruit curd can be stored in the fridge for up to 4 weeks, or frozen for a few months.
Lime jelly
2 gelatine sheets (titanium grade)
100ml water
75ml lime juice
50g white (granulated) sugar
Method
Soak the gelatine in cold water to soften.
Meanwhile, combine the water, lime juice and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Squeeze the excess water from the softened gelatine, add it to the pan and whisk until dissolved and well combined. Set aside to cool to room temperature.
Pour the jelly over the frozen passionfruit curd to create a thin layer, approximately 1.5-2mm thick. Return the cheesecake to the freezer one last time until frozen solid.
Chantilly cream
100ml thickened (whipping) cream
25g white (granulated) sugar
Method
Combine the cream and sugar in a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whisk until stiff peaks form. Transfer to a piping bag and store it in the fridge until needed.
Assembly
Liquid glucose
Edible flowers, to garnish
Micro mint, to garnish
Blueberries or raspberries, to garnish
Gently warm the outside of the pastry frame with a blowtorch to help release it. Warm a long sharp knife in hot water, then wipe the knife and trim the edges of the cheesecake. Using a ruler as a guide, cut the cheesecake into 3x12cm slices, heating and wiping the knife after each cut. Transfer to the fridge to thaw before serving.
Spread a little liquid glucose on each serving plate to secure the cheesecake slice.
Pipe dollops of passionfruit curd and chantilly cream on top of the lime jelly and garnish with the flowers, mint and halved berries.
Serve immediately or store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3-5 days.
