Margaritas in Mexico's Mission Pink hotel

Margarita. Photo by Wikimedia Commons.
Margarita. Photo by Wikimedia Commons.
Titanic and Avatar director James Cameron, who has been helping with the disastrous oil spill in the Gulf, is no stranger to Mexico.

He filmed Titanic in Baja California in northern Mexico, only 45 minutes from the notorious border with the United States.

And many scenes were shot at the Hotel Calafia, which is next to an 18th century Franciscan mission on cliffs overlooking the ocean, including the first class dining room scenes in its restaurant.

The Canadian-born Cameron is considered an expert on underwater filming and remote vehicle technologies and was called in to brainstorm on ways to stop the massive oil leak.

And he is not afraid to cross the border.

It seems many others are though - with Mexico's reputation tarnished by swine flu, drug gang wars between cartels fighting over smuggling routes to the US, the economic crisis, poor border towns and giant fences built to stop illegal immigrants getting into the land of milk and honey.

Whenever I mentioned I was heading to Mexico - one of my favourite countries which I have spent many great times in - people warned me.

"Don't go there, it's too dangerous."

But undeterred, my friend and I headed down from Los Angeles in her trusty if beaten up Honda. She had stayed often at Calafia, between Rosarito and Ensenada on the Baja California.

We stopped off in San Diego, the closest American town to the Californian/Mexico border and spent a very pleasant night there on the way back. It's only about 20 minutes from the border and many drive there, park and walk across to Tijuana for a day of shopping and eating.

To get to Calafia follow the signs and take the scenic road, especially if you want to avoid driving through the middle of Tijuana. There's a toll where you can pay in US dollars if you don't have pesos.

If you stop for petrol you'll be pleasantly surprised by the attendant filling your tank for you and even cleaning your windscreen. Remember the good ol' days?

It's not such a good idea to take a rental car, and study maps, however.

Although still clean and atmospheric, the hotel's seen better days and for some unknown reason has painted the formerly pristine white walls dark pink and blue. When we asked the staff about this they said it was to attract tourists.

It's now overshadowed to the north by a huge condominium block - where many Americans have moved, attracted by the relaxed lifestyle and cheaper healthcare. And such condos are being built right along the coast.

Just before the hotel is Fox Studios Baja where almost all of Titanic was filmed - it was the Pacific Ocean Rose and Jack lent over from the ship's bow not the Atlantic.

Foxploration is its behind-the-scenes, movie-making park.

The hotel has pieces from the Titanic movie set and photos on the wall as well as a mini-museum of local artifacts.

We arrived just on dark and headed to the bar next to the deck restaurant, with amazing views down the coast. Although he was just about to close the barman mixed the best margaritas in the world for us.

When we heard we had a 30-minute wait for our taxi into Puerto Nuevo for dinner, he re-opened the bar and mixed us another drink - $US6.50 for a Margarita, not bad.

At the bottle shop in Puerto Nuevo the Patron tequila imported from the US is double the price of the local stuff - $US5 to $US6 a bottle.

The taxi waited for us in town while we had a superb dinner of lobster, beans, rice and wheat tortillas for around $US30 ($A35.70) each including wine.

The next morning we watched dolphins surf the waves as we had another great Mexican meal - breakfast - while locals trimmed the outside chapel area with pink ribbons in time for a wedding.

Going south on the border is fairly seamless - you don't have to show your passports. On the way back, policemen check your passports and car, and often ask drivers to "pop your trunk" so they can check if you're carrying anything illegal.

During the wait (anything from 30 minutes to several hours), good looking Mexican kids sell soft drinks to raise money for their American Football Association. Other souvenirs that you might not want to bring home are hats, pink guitars, World Cup T-shirts and crucifixes made from plaster. Perhaps also avoid the nieves or frozen sweet fruit drinks made with lemon and mango.

Further north on the freeway to San Diego once you cross the border are giant warning signs showing Mexican families running across the road.

We liked the idea of similar posters being displayed on the Mexican side showing geriatric American couples heading down to buy condos.

IF YOU GO:

Hotel Calafia. Km. 35.5 carretera libre a Ensenada, Rosarito, Baja California, Mexico. Visit: www.hotel-calafia.com. Call: 661-614-98-15 or if calling from the US: 619-739-4343.

Andaz San Diego. 600 F Street San Diego. Call: (619) 849-1234.

For details on California visit: www.visitcalifornia.com.au and on San Diego visit: www.sandiego.org.

Air Tahiti Nui offers three weekly one-stop (via Auckland) flights from Australia to Papeete, Tahiti, with daily connecting flights to Los Angeles. Until August 31, the airline has a $1 stopover deal for the first night stay at Le Meriden Tahiti, which is priced per person, twin share. Call: 1300-732-415, or visit www.airtahitinui.com.au.

 

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