iD 2011: Future of fashion storms iD catwalk

Modelling Kate Bolzonello's iD International Emerging Designer Awards winning collection "Clouded...
Modelling Kate Bolzonello's iD International Emerging Designer Awards winning collection "Clouded" on the catwalk in Dunedin last night are (from left) Kayleigh Hancock, Elza Jenkins, Georgie Dooley, Becky Finley and Nellie Jenkins. Photo by Linda Robertson.
It was an all-female transtasman affair at the iD International Emerging Designer Awards in Dunedin last night, with Australians and New Zealanders taking the top five prizes.

More than 1200 people turned out to see the future of fashion design storm the catwalk at the Lion Foundation Arena and they were not disappointed.

Kate Bolzonello, a Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology graduate, won the Life Pharmacy first prize of $5000 for her collection "Clouded".

Her garments, in muted tones, included sheer blouses, quilted boleros and skirts with internal bustle structures to add "light and whimsical volume".

Now in their seventh year, the awards attracted more than 120 entries from 20 countries, representing some of the world's most prestigious fashion schools.

Their collections ranged from candypop-coloured tunics and clear-plastic coats, to buttoned-up tailored blouses and black knit shrouds, with the show taking on a more commercial look than in previous years.

The 26 finalists were judged on Wednesday by a panel comprising editor of vogue.com.au Damien Woolnough, international guest designer Akira Isogawa, project supervisor of the Mittelmoda Fashion Award Stefano Sopelza, Nom*D designer Margi Robertson, and Carlson designer Tanya Carlson.

Isogawa was "impressed that there was a good balance between creativity and commercial reality" in the collections, which was "very difficult" to obtain, he said.

"I was pleasantly surprised by what I saw and that each designer presented their collection with confidence and is so proud of what they have achieved."

Inspiration for the Bolzonello collection came from photos by Sarah Moon, particularly the narrative qualities in the images.

"Her images of clouds became more literal inspiration, informing the fullness in the silhouette, the tonal range of the colour palette and the textural layering of quilted chiffon and tulle," Bolzonello said.

Mr Woolnough describe Bolzonello's collection as having "a sense of whimsy and playfulness that shifted it from purely conceptual to commercial".

Second place, the $2000 Dunedin City Council prize, went to Shenaz Engineer, from Queensland University of Technology, for her collection "A Kaleidoscopic Perspective".

Third place, the $1000 Mild Red prize, went to Sarah Mok, from Sydney's University of Technology, for her collection "Ephemeral Reverie".

Marie Kelly, a Massey University graduate, was awarded the Mittelmoda prize, gaining direct entry to show at Mittelmoda in Italy, and $600 from Haier, for her collection "Look into my Eyes".

Mr Sopelza said the awards were about more than just fashion.

"These designers are also illustrators, artists and photographers and their artistic roots provide strong points of reference.

"Marie Kelly's collection showed a European influence, had enormous character and truly reflected her inspiration based on her experience with depression," he said.

Julie Campbell, from Whitecliffe College of Arts and Design in Auckland, won the Pacific Blue travel prize for her collection "Ethos".

Renuka Pana, from Auckland University of Technology, won the Golden Centre prize of $1000 for the most commercial collection for "Chinese Whispers".

- ellie.constantine@odt.co.nz

 

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