The boys of winter

Micro check navy Gibson suit, Berlin check shirt with paisley neck and cuff trim, at Alex...
Micro check navy Gibson suit, Berlin check shirt with paisley neck and cuff trim, at Alex Campbell Menswear.
Checked shirt and  Hampstead slim jeans worn with sports coat  in small herringbone check and...
Checked shirt and Hampstead slim jeans worn with sports coat in small herringbone check and suede boots, all from Ben Sherman, at Arthur Barnett.
Mountain Kite jacket and Swing pants from Rick Owebs are teamed with a Nom*D Sitting Dunce T...
Mountain Kite jacket and Swing pants from Rick Owebs are teamed with a Nom*D Sitting Dunce T-shirt, at Plume.
At Void, Dead 100 football top, cap  and shorts, designed by Sam Moore of Melbourne, formerly of...
At Void, Dead 100 football top, cap and shorts, designed by Sam Moore of Melbourne, formerly of Hawkes Bay and Dunedin, where he studied.
Chino pants teamed with Trencher coat over Frenso Washer long-sleeve shirt and worn with ...
Chino pants teamed with Trencher coat over Frenso Washer long-sleeve shirt and worn with Branston dress shoes, trilby hat and grey marle scarf, at Meccano.
The Ellen pullover and scarf  and Mister Patch pants from Dunedin label Clothes I've Made, at Void.
The Ellen pullover and scarf and Mister Patch pants from Dunedin label Clothes I've Made, at Void.
Levi's duffle coat, denim shirt and slim-leg jeans, at Levi's.
Levi's duffle coat, denim shirt and slim-leg jeans, at Levi's.
Bolter long sleeve T-shirt from the winter collection of the Auckland label Sly Guild, at Void.
Bolter long sleeve T-shirt from the winter collection of the Auckland label Sly Guild, at Void.
From Denmark, Woodwood Fitzroy sweater and Assembly chinos teamed with Rains jacket from...
From Denmark, Woodwood Fitzroy sweater and Assembly chinos teamed with Rains jacket from Scandinavia, at Slick Willy's.
Barker's navy slim-fit jeans and Macville Dot shirt with button-down collar worn with shawl...
Barker's navy slim-fit jeans and Macville Dot shirt with button-down collar worn with shawl-collared Turner lambswool jersey and topped by AB's herringbone oatmeal wool coat and Sibbald check scarf, at Barkers.
Red tape suede brogues, at Meccano.
Red tape suede brogues, at Meccano.
New Balance 996 sneaker, at Slick Willy's.
New Balance 996 sneaker, at Slick Willy's.
Grams 430g sneaker, at Slick Willy's.
Grams 430g sneaker, at Slick Willy's.

From retro to futuristic, winter menswear trends provide a swathe of options. Jude Hathaway reports.

Sports luxe, Scandinavian chic, nautical preppy ... these are some of the trends driving menswear in Europe in the past three or four seasons, which has not been lost on the fashionable men - albeit mainly younger fashionable men - here in southern New Zealand.

A fairly sweeping category, sports luxe includes retro sporting looks embracing polo shirts, shawl-collar jumpers, raglan-sleeve sweatshirts, rain-slicker jackets, cotton chinos and zip-detailed bomber jackets through to bat, board, ball and skate influences.

The trend is all about a luxury take on traditional sportswear, menswear aficionados say.

It's not, they say, just an excuse to stock up on sloppy sweatpants - try slimline styles instead - comfortable shorts and the like.

There's gleam and sheen through to neoprene fabrics in the go-to brands.

Opt for pieces that have connotations with the world of sport, at the same time being versatile enough to be integrated into the current wardrobe.

They should just as readily be dressed up as down.

Also showing a nod to sports are some of the non-conformist streetwear brands that feature unisex cuts, monochrome cult graphics, and heaps of attitude.

All with their distinct mojo, any one of these brands allows the wearer to get their individuality out there.

And Scandinavian chic?

This is all about cold-climate rugged looks, including big jackets over rolled chinos and oversized chunky knit sweaters worn with knee-length shorts and sneakers.

Preppy collegiate styles continue as a main trend.

Dressy slimline shirts are worn under a jersey and jacket and teamed with either jeans or chinos and bright leather sneakers, often with contrasting soles and laces for added punch.

Add to this styles that have a nautical influence, which include horizontal-striped jumpers and slim-fit pea jackets.

Denim, too, continues to maintain an edge.

After a love affair with indigo, top jeanswear brands are showing a return to stressed, ripped and faded finishes with slim-leg styles on trend for winter.

There are fewer of the drop-crotch jeans silhouettes this season as demand wanes.

Stretch denim allows macho good looks to run alongside a built-in comfy factor.

There's also something of '60s London in the menswear pipeline for autumn and winter.

Back then it was all about the mod looks and here they are again - turtlenecks, drainpipe pants and shorter, slimmer suit jackets that during their original arrival on the menswear scene earned them the ''bum-freezer'' tag.

These '60s looks, which have been slowly and surely gaining momentum in the past couple of years, were to the fore at the January menswear shows in New York, London, Paris and Milan, with various manifestations including the shorter jackets and narrow lapels that are seen in tailored suits this season in Dunedin.

These are single breasted and either one or two-button with twin back vents.

And, it seems that more young guys are favouring suits, not only because they know they look good in the slim-line fit but because of suits' favourable price points brought about by good quality imported lines.

Another back-to-the-'60s trend is the paisley shirt, popular last summer and back again for winter.

And small prints, dots and checks - often with a contrasting trim on cuffs and collars - abound to add a bolt of colour with monochrome jackets, pants and knitwear.

Talk new-season colours and it's blue, blue and more blue, transiting from pale denim and Wedgwood tones through to navy.

Blue, say the fashion experts, is bringing men a welcome change and, being a ''cool'' colour tends to suit men's often ruddy complexions.

However, those who have a penchant for black need not worry.

Black is a basic for any southern sartorialist's wardrobe.

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