Simple, seasonal, sensational oregano

Afifi's oregano salad. Photo by Charmian Smith.
Afifi's oregano salad. Photo by Charmian Smith.
Oregano threatens to take over my herb garden.

Over a few seasons it not only expands around its original place, but seedlings also pop up all over and soon become large clumps.

Although I use it often, I don't use huge amounts, so I was delighted when Afifi Harris, who sells Middle Eastern foods at the Otago Farmers Market in Dunedin on Saturday mornings, gave me a pottle of oregano salad to try and a reason to use lots more of this prolific herb.

Her grandmother in Lebanon used to make it from wild herbs, known as zaatar, she says - oregano and various types of marjoram, thyme and mint.

Like many of the best dishes, it is simple, quickly made, variable according to what you have and versatile.

Take the leaves from a large bunch of oregano, mix with a diced onion, add a tablespoon of olive oil and lemon juice to taste - and that's it.

It's a strongly flavoured mix, and I used it more like a salsa or pesto than a salad, but it went beautifully on boiled new potatoes and other vegetables, salads and fish.

It's also good with hummus, chickpeas and chicken. And it keeps a few days in the fridge.

Mrs Harris says she makes a version with garlic to spread over fish she bakes in the oven.

She calls this mix wild zaatar - as opposed to fine zaatar which is a finely ground blend of sumac and sesame seeds with oregano which is sprinkled over dishes. She uses it with olive oil on the flatbread she sells at the market.

Zaatar is often made with thyme as well.

I looked for similar recipes and found salmoriglio from southern Italy and Sicily which is widely used with fish and other dishes.

London chefs Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers in The River Cafe Cookbook Green crush marjoram with sea salt and mix it with lemon juice and olive oil.

Italian-born London restaurateur Antonio Carluccio in Carluccio's Complete Italian Food uses parsley instead of marjoram or oregano, and Valentina Harris in Regional Italian Cookery includes garlic, oregano, parsley and lemon, and whisks the oil until thick.

So take your pick.

It's a great way to use up those prolific herbs and to add a lovely bite of flavour to your food.

- Afifi Harris takes Middle Eastern cooking classes. Phone (03) 473-894

 

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