This tasting of pinot noirs from Nelson, Marlborough and Wairarapa revealed how big, oaky and overly ripe and sweet some of the 2007s are - perhaps a reflection of the small but ripe vintage.
I was also surprised these wines were so oaky, it was like chewing a mantelpiece when compared with recently tasted 2007s from Central Otago, with fruit purity, texture and balance.
Sometimes I get the feeling (northern) winemakers think they have to justify the $30-$40 price tag with oodles of oak.
The best wines allowed the charm of the pinot noir fruit to shine through without smothering it in an oaky duvet.
◊ Best under $20
(about $19.95)
Pathway is a new, affordable range of wines from Winegrowers of Ara, and this is fragrant and succulent with hints of spicy plums, a creamy, silky texture, fine-grained tannins and a lingering aftertaste.
Very drinkable.
Three stars (out of five)
Good value
(about $24)
Spicy with hints of lollies, cherries and dark fruits, and oodles of toasty oak - a pinot for shiraz drinkers.
Two stars (out of five)
Average value
(about $31)
A dark, concentrated wine with hints of cherry plums, field mushrooms, dried herbs and spicy oak, powerful but balanced, long and drinking nicely now.
Four stars (out of five)
Good value
Ata Rangi Crimson MartinboroughPinot Noir 2008
(about $32)
A dark brooding wine with a hint of frivolity - sweet fruit with a hint of raisins, chocolate and lollies, full and rich in the mouth, but supple, fine-grained tannins on the long finish.
Attractive and very drinkable.
Four stars (out of five)
Good value
Bird Big Barrel Old Schoolhouse Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Noir 2007
(About $35)
After selling his Thornbury label to Villa Maria, Steve Bird is back with a new label.
This pinot oozes spicy oak, sweet, almost overripe dark fruit with a hint of licorice and a juicy, textural finish.
A bit disjointed when first poured, it came together with more charm the following day.
Drink later in the year.
Three stars (out of five)
Poor value
Fromm Brancott Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Noir 2006
(About $44)
The three pinots from Fromm impressed as usual but this stood out for its price and its velvety succulence and poise.
A year older than most of the wines in this tasting, it was mellowed with dark cherry fruit, hints of French polish and a brooding, lingering finish.
Four stars (out of five)
Average value
Another Glass
Ata Rangi Martinborough Pinot Noir 2007
(about $65)
From one of the country's leading pinot producers, this is powerful but poised, sumptuous and succulent, complex and concentrated with brooding dark fruit, hints of French polish, spice, and a lively, long complex finish.
Five stars (out of five)
Good value
Fromm Fromm Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Noir 2005
(about $64)
I was impressed by the range of Fromm pinot noirs.
This four year old wine from the home vineyard is mellowed stylish and spicy with a hint of dried herbs, pepper and licorice, cigarbox with a finely poised, finish.
Four stars (out of five)
Average value
Fromm Clayvin Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Noir 2005
(about $60)
A mature pinot with hints of dark cherries, raisins, prunes and licorice, all mellowed together with a hint of savoury, spicy oak and long, dry, stylish finish.
Four stars (out of five)
Poor value
Spy Valley Marlborough Pinot Noir 2007
(about $29)
Bright and spicy with red fruit bolstered by lots of oak.
Three stars (out of five)
Average value
Envoy Marlborough Pinot Noir 2006
(about $55) If you enjoy big, over the top wines, you will probably like this premium wine from Spy Valley's oldest vines.
Lots of spicy oak bolsters the dark cherry fruit and a long finish.
Three stars (out of five)
Poor value
