WINE REVIEWS: Spicy syrah and shiraz

Hawkes Bay syrah typically has a peppery edge and brighter, juicier fruit than its Australian counterpart, shiraz.

These are often jammy with grippy tannins, although blending with viognier or the Spanish variety tempranillo can make them more enjoyable.

These tend to be obliging wines that complement many types of food, unlike some of the punchy tannic wines that after half a glass you wonder why you bother with the struggle.


◊ BEST UNDER $20

Brown Brothers Victoria Tempranillo 2006
(about $19)

An obliging wine, with enough dark berry fruit and savouriness to balance the masses of oak that round out the mouthfeel.

Unlike many shirazes, this Spanish variety does not seem to become jammy which makes it versatile with food.

- Three stars (out of five)

- Good value

www.brownbrothers.com.au


◊ BEST UNDER $20

Sileni Cellar Selection Hawkes Bay Syrah 2007
(about $20)

It's great to see some very drinkable syrahs at affordable prices coming out of Hawkes Bay at last.

This has a peppery edge, and lively hints of blueberries and raspberries with a hint of spice and a juicy finish.

- Three stars (out of five)

- Good value.

www.sileni.co.nz


Wyndham Bin 515 Shiraz Viognier 2006
(about $17)

Aromas suggesting licorice, spice and pepper, bright fruit with a hint of sweetness and a soft, easy finish make this attractive drinking. Versatile with food.

- Two stars (out of five)

- Average value

www.wyndhamestate.com


Penfolds Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz 2007
(about $24)

From the cooler Australian area of Coonawarra, this rich shiraz has a hint of black pepper, vanilla and nutmeg, along with oodles of toasty oak, undertones of dark chocolate, toffee and dark berries.

Although it's a big, powerful wine, it also has a nicely balanced brightness and long, concentrated finish. For those who enjoy Australian reds.

- Four stars (out of five)

- Good value

www.penfolds.com


Instinct Hawkes Bay Syrah 2007
(about $20)

Another Hawkes Bay syrah with a peppery edge, that verges on the green and slightly under ripe, with juicy fruit, spicy oak and a finish that's almost too lively.

- Two stars (out of five)

- Average value

www.instinctwines.co.nz


Villa Maria Cellar Selection Hawkes Bay Syrah 2007
(about $30)

A good example of the elegance and purity of fruit that Hawkes Bay syrah can show at its best - blueberries, red plums, pepper and spicy oak and a lingering aftertaste.

It stood out in the line of anonymous glasses for its beautiful bright colour and velvety sheen. A wine that will develop over a couple of years.

- Four stars (out of five)

- Average value

www.villamaria.co.nz


ANOTHER GLASS

Wyndham George Wyndham Shiraz Tempranillo 2007
(about $24)

Juicy plums and dark berries with a hint of dark chocolate, almonds and savouriness, meld with firm, fine-grained tannins on the finish.

An obliging wine, versatile with food.

- Three stars (out of five)

- Average value

www.wyndamestate.com


Tinpot Hut Hawkes Bay Syrah 2007
(about $30)

There's a lot going on in this wine - pungent aromas, exotic fruits, guavas, herbs, pepper, smoky oak, engine oil, tar, sweet, juicy blueberries and plums with oodles of oak, but it lacks harmony at present. It may settle with more bottle age.

- Three stars (out of five)

- Below average value

www.tinpothut.co.nz


Penfolds Bin 389 South Australia Cabernet Shiraz 2006
(about $38)

A classic blend from this huge Australian winery, this vintage of Bin 389 has all the rich dark berry fruit, spice, concentration, structure and chewy, grippy tannins that its followers enjoy.

It's a wine that calls attention to itself, but will also develop for a decade or so with good cellaring.

- Four stars (out of five)

- Average value

www.penfolds.com


Brown Brothers Patricia Victoria Shiraz 2005
(about $55)

One of the stylish, expensive shirazes from Australia that show the class this variety can achieve, this wine hints of eucalyptus and lush, spicy fruit, with classy, spicy oak supported by firm underlying tannins with a supple grip, well cushioned by the fruit.

Although it's already four years old, it will continue to develop for another decade or so.

- Four stars (out of five)

www.brownbrothers.com.au



Two stars - simple, clean, enjoyable wine; three stars - good wine with varietal characteristics; four stars - very good wine with some outstanding characteristics; five stars - outstanding wine with balance and harmony that leaves you with a sense of wonder.

- Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine tasting and evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations.

- charmian.smith@odt.co.nz

 

 

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