Unique train journey

As soon as the 700m-long silver train rolls off Perth’s East Terminal, a celebration begins for many passengers on board who have dreamt for years of travelling on  this legendary Indian Pacific between Perth to Sydney at least once in their lifetime.

Australian writer Sandip Hor did Sydney to Perth 10 years ago, but this time rediscovers the journey from the opposite direction.

Long-distance travelling by train is not popular in down under; most prefer to either fly or even drive as they are perceived to be the more convenient and comfortable mode of travel. However travelling on the Indian Pacific, which takes four days to cover a distance of 4352km, stands out as an exception as it’s not any ordinary rail voyage to reach a destination — but a luxurious vacation on wheels.

Passing through three Australian states — Western Australia, South Australia and New South Wales; and touching the respective capital cities, Perth, Adelaide and Sydney — this transcontinental crossing provides a rare opportunity to discover the vast east-west spread of the continent blessed with different geographical terrains, from scorched red-coloured desert lands and goldfields to rocky valleys and lush mountains.

This includes a passage over the longest stretch of rail track in the world — the 478km across the Nullarbor Plain in Western Australia, meandering through the Great Dividing Range, the salt lakes and sand dunes of South Australia and snaking around the lush green Blue Mountains in New South Wales.

The scenery greets eyes the moment the window curtain is removed. Chasing the sun rising in the morning and then plunging into the west at the end of the day becomes a highlight of the voyage, as the changing colours of the horizon outside — from golden yellow and crimson red to light purple and grey — become a feast for the eyes. If lucky enough, outback wildlife can be spotted outside as well — from running kangaroos, resting emus and ferocious dingoes to Arabian camels. These camels were imported from Afghanistan in the early 19th century for carrying goods, but now off duty, they have blended into the blur of the desert sky.

The visual experience of engaging with the incredible diversity of the Great Southern Land is enhanced by off-train adventures that physically connect guests with each landmark destination on this epic route. The journey halts at the historic settlements Kalgoorlie (a gold-rush town), Rawlinna and Cook (two tiny settlements with a population of fewer than five), South Australian capital Adelaide, mining town Broken Hill (where Australian giant BHP was born) and Mount Victoria at the edge of the scenic Blue Mountains region. A variety of excursions at these stops provides everyone with a unique appreciation of the remoteness and rich history of outback Australia that can’t be achieved easily by any other means.

The four days of rattling on wheels are a great way to relax and recharge batteries. If at any time the outside panorama gets boring, some bury their nose in a book or even meditate in their own cabin — but most congregate at the lounge to make new friends and socialise over a drink with fellow travellers from different parts of the country. Alcohol flows like water from the bar as unlimited consumption of beer, wine and spirits are all included in the price — which also includes all meals, off-train excursions and comfortable cabin accommodation with a private en suite.

There are two classes of accommodation — gold and platinum.

Gold class provides a comfortable sleeper cabin with upper and lower berths that convert to a three-seater lounge by day. For the discerning traveller, the platinum service cabin — almost double in size of the gold version — is configured during the day as a private lounge with deluxe seating, while at night it is converted into a comfortable bedroom with either double or twin beds.

In addition to the comfort of the beautifully appointed cabins, a speciality of the trip is the sumptuous cuisine, fine wines and camaraderie served in the queen Adelaide restaurant carriage that evokes the golden era of rail with an Art Deco atmosphere.

Running with glory for more than a century, Indian Pacific has hardly ever disappointed any guests on board. While enjoying the expedition, I feel impressed the same way I did 10 years ago.

Before boarding the train I spent a few days in Perth exploring the city and its surrounding destinations like port town Freemantle, serene Rottnest Island, Pinnacles Desert — a natural wonder and Margaret River region synonymous with high-quality wine.

Travel Notebook

Getting There — Air New Zealand (www.airnewzealand.com.au) and Qantas (www.qantas.com) offers regular flights to Perth and Sydney from New Zealand.

Train Information — Check  www.journeybeyondrail.com.au for fares and timetable.

Perth Stay — Pan Pacific Hotel (www.panpacific.com)