Organic wine a winner, naturally

Kawarau Estate vineyard manager Cat Maclachlan checks organic compost used for grapes. Photo by...
Kawarau Estate vineyard manager Cat Maclachlan checks organic compost used for grapes. Photo by Rosie Manins.
Kawarau Estate Vineyard near Cromwell uses its organic certification as a point of difference when marketing its wine throughout New Zealand and the rest of the world.

Sales and administration manager Jonathan Holdsworth said organic methods of grape growing and processing increased the quality of Kawarau Estate's wine and enabled it to be sold in premium markets.

The vineyard's cellar walls are full of international and national wine awards, won for various varieties over many years.

Mr Holdsworth said top international wine makers were converting to organics as the demand for high-quality wine pushed standards up and wine makers sought a purer product.

"The grapes are grown in the most natural way, with nutrient-rich soil to combat any weeds or pests, and there are restrictions on what we are able to add to the wine, so the end product is a true reflection of where it was grown and produced. Internationally, there's been a big movement within some of the top producers around the world to convert to organics," he said.

Kawarau Estate was purchased in 1993 and immediately the three-year process of organic certification started.

As one of the only certified organic vineyards in Central Otago, it caters to a growing demand for the district's pinot noir, as well as for high-quality organic produce.

Mr Holdsworth said a premium price was not placed on the wine for its organic status, but rather it was priced competitively with other wines of the same quality.

"In 1993, there were probably people in the community who thought the owners were barking mad for going organic but look at where we are now. We need to be competitive in the market for which there is definitely a demand," he said.

Between 40% and 70% of Kawarau Estate wine is exported, depending on its variety and vintage.

Vineyard manager Cat Maclachlan said being organic was more labour-intensive than using sprays and chemicals to manage crops, although organic methods paid for themselves in the end.

"It is harder because you can't rely on a chemical to save the day, but we don't have to buy all those nasty herbicides and pesticides either. It is still more expensive to be organic, but you are not raping and pillaging the earth, so the property is healthier, vines grow better, and it is more sustainable," she said.

Underground weeders attached to tractors are used on the vines and each year after pruning about 800 merino sheep are brought into the property to eat whatever weeds are left.

Auditors checked the property annually, during which compound levels in the soil were analysed and crops monitored, and even receipts of products purchased for the vineyard were checked.

"Being organic is certainly something we would never go back on. The more organic produce there is in New Zealand the better the economy will be, because that's where the premium is," Mr Holdsworth said.

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