Wine match

In some ways gewurztraminer has never really recovered from the great floods of second-rate Muller-thurgau that crowded the shelves in the first flush of the local wine industry's youth.

Hectares of the stuff - which produced a largely nondescript, medium to sweetish, floral wine - were ripped out of vineyards in the '80s and consigned to the unfortunate mistakes of history bin.

This is a shame because gewurztraminer has a lot more going for it as an occasional change.

It's quite unlike most other New Zealand whites, distinctive, tending to the floral, fruity, which almost invariably gives it a sweeter taste than say, sauvignon, but also has some interesting flavour dimensions which lend themselves to foods with a bit of spice about them.

So if you've knocked up a stir-fry at the crib, or indeed are trying the cold noodle and prawn salad (left), or have visited the local Thai, Chinese or Indonesian takeaway, you could do worse than this.

It's a wine that has the body and depth to stand up to, or complement spiciness, whereas the more acidic wines tend to fight it.

Rose petals and lychees are flavour notes often said to be associated with the grape - admittedly not much help if you are unfamiliar with lychees - so think Turkish delight.

You might find hints of all these in the Saint Clair Family Estate Pioneer Block 12 Lone Gum Gewurztraminer 2008 (RRP $22.95), a mouthful in more ways than one.

A pleasant example of the genre from Marlborough, full-bodied, bursting with aroma, and it won't be overawed by the berry trifle either.

Look out for examples from the Gisborne area, probably the predominant gewurztraminer producer in the country.

Huntaway Reserve Gisborne Gewurztraminer ($16-$20) is always worth a look, Villa Maria Cellar Selection East Coast Gewurztraminer is affordable and reliable and I have seen "cleanskins" of Gisborne gewurzt advertised by the Mill for under $10 - a likely bargain.

- Simon Cunliffe

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