Forever in blue jeans

Long-time companion of Karl Lagerfeld, Baptiste Giabiconi (right) and a model walk the runway in...
Long-time companion of Karl Lagerfeld, Baptiste Giabiconi (right) and a model walk the runway in the Chanel Pret a Porter show at Paris Fashion Week earlier this month. Photo by Getty Images.
Levi's latest summer range includes Supri Skinny Summer Storm jeans ($149.90). Photo supplied.
Levi's latest summer range includes Supri Skinny Summer Storm jeans ($149.90). Photo supplied.
Levi's latest summer range includes Skinny Rinse jeans ($99.90). Photo supplied.
Levi's latest summer range includes Skinny Rinse jeans ($99.90). Photo supplied.
Stolen Girlfriends Club Teen Queen velvet jeans (available from next year, from $410). Photo...
Stolen Girlfriends Club Teen Queen velvet jeans (available from next year, from $410). Photo supplied.
French actress and model Clemence Poesy arrives at the Chanel Pret a Porter last week in denims....
French actress and model Clemence Poesy arrives at the Chanel Pret a Porter last week in denims. Photo by Getty Images.
Not Your Daughter's Jeans start from $279. Photo supplied.
Not Your Daughter's Jeans start from $279. Photo supplied.

From workwear of the 19th century they became a cult trend in the 1950s and are today a serious fashion item. Jude Hathaway takes a look at the latest moves in the always evolving jeans scene.

They were introduced as workwear in the United States 137 years ago, but now denim jeans are worn in the front row of the most spectacular fashion shows and prestigious events throughout the world.

Every year some of the world's most famous designer names make sure a new jeans style is included in their pret a porter ranges.

And far from the international fashion scene, family gatherings see three, even four generations wearing jeans. The "grandies" possibly won't be showing off the same brand as their children or grandkids and will not - heaven forbid - be wearing the same styles.

But they will look just about as good as the younger generations. On that one can rely, because designers for top brands have seen to it that the appeal of jeans does not fade among loyal customers.

As Amy Henderson, owner of Slick Willy's, a Dunedin jeanswear outlet established 25 years ago, points out: "Where the well-established brands might fail in attracting a particular demographic, the young upstarts in jeanswear design are ready to step in . . . to take care of those who love the idea of denim, but abhor the thought of wearing the same clothes as their parents."

This aiming at a particular age group or mindset is evidenced in the recently-released US label Not Your Daughter's Jeans into New Zealand fashion stores. They have already wooed women such as Jane Seymour, Marie Osmond, Elizabeth Hasselbech and Oprah Winfrey.

Arthur Barnett's fashion buyer Yvette Billot has been watching the response to the jeans that offer more stretch, a higher rise, a clever cut and patented "tummy tuck" technology.

"With their slimming effect they're making women feel younger. Many of the customers haven't worn jeans for years and are thrilled to be getting back into them. Others are pleased because they're wearing denim for the very first time."

In indigo and black, the range is in core cuts of boot leg, straight and wide leg.

The American sizing begins at 0 (NZ size 6) and goes to 16 (about NZ size 20). A special try-before-you-buy "Fit Day" will be held in Dunedin on Friday.

Designers know the fit is paramount when it comes to jeans. Designer Patrick Robinson, of Gap - a brand that has been producing jeans since 1969 - recently launched a premium denim range which addresses this issue. Sales have soared.

Incidentally, his other concerns are price and accessibility. Believing that denim was becoming too much of a luxury item he scoured the world for the best denim, revamped the fits and recently launched the jeans into Gap stores at $US79 ($NZ107).

The right fit has been a preoccupation with jeans wearers since film legends James Dean and Marlon Brando changed the image of jeans from workwear into a sexy and controversial fashion item in the '50s.

The '60s saw denim wearers lying in hot baths in their new jeans in attempts to shrink them to their body shape while they and the water turned blue. In the 1970s came high-waisted hip-hugging fashion styles which forced new tactics for getting dressed. Lying horizontal was the best way to coax them on and get the killer zip done up.

That was before the stretch was put in denim. Whoever introduced this feature deserves accolades.

But stretch was probably the last thing on the mind of Levi Strauss, the 19th-century instigator of the whole denim story.

No doubt he would raise his eyebrows at some of the recent modifications.

Now the brand that bears his name is this month introducing a new solution to "seasoning" jeans which leaves the control in the owner's hands. The new Imprint jeans allows guys - the Imprint is in the men's 511 slim straight-fit jean - to "customise and craft their own denim masterpiece" using "crocking" technology.

This controls the way the dye fades and rubs off by way of imprints from body movement and personal knick-knacks such as guitar picks, car keys, key chains and money clips, along with heat from the washing method.

And Mr Strauss may also be surprised at the names of some of his competitors, many of which are stocked in Dunedin and which were reeled off by Amy Henderson. There's "Dr Denim", "I Heard They Eat Cigarettes", "April 77", "Cheap Monday", "Otto", "Nobody", "TV" , "Stolen Girlfriends Club", and "We Are The Superlative Conspiracy (WESC)".

Bizarre or brilliant, they're all part of denim's intriguing story.

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