As the temperatures drop, Josie Steenhart checks in with three of our most loved fashion designers - Kowtow’s Dayne Johnston, Juliette Hogan and Sara Aspinall of Company of Strangers - on what’s in, what never went out, what they’re loving and what they’re doing (and wearing) for the winter ahead.
What are you most excited about fashion this season?
Dayne Johnston: I’ve always been a winter person - I grew up in Wānaka in a colder climate, so this season just feels right to me. I love the opportunity winter gives you to build out a look and really compose it. It’s not just a shirt and trousers; it’s a long sleeve under a tee, knitwear under a coat, all those interesting layers. Suddenly your wardrobe becomes more dynamic - pieces you’ve had tucked away get a second life. You pull them out, rework them and suddenly something old feels brand new.
One of the most inspiring moments for me this season was during our campaign shoot, we styled the Kowtow Sienna top over the Landscape trench. That kind of layering, where sleeve lengths clash in the best way, creates depth and texture. It’s a reminder that winter dressing can be fun, expressive and thoughtful.
Juliette Hogan: I’m especially excited about our Cassia coat - it feels like the ultimate winter indulgence. Beautifully tailored with a refined ease that finishes any outfit.
Sara Aspinall: I’m obsessed with shirts at the moment. I love layering them under my knitwear, or worn over a dress or layer like a jacket. We did a long paisley shirt printing like a men’s suit lining and I ordered loads of Lela Jacobs knitwear to wear over this print - the colours are so good together.
Favourite international winter fashion trend you’re hoping will take off here?
Dayne Johnston: I’m loving vintage cowboy boots. They’ve got this history to them - traditional, lived-in and they bring such personality to a look. We styled them into our campaign shoot and they really defined the look. It felt unexpected in the context of our world, but it worked. We did it the Kowtow way - sourcing a vintage pair from one of our team. There’s a rugged elegance and story to them.
Juliette Hogan: I’m loving the shift away from chunky sneakers towards a more refined, ballet-inspired silhouette. It feels fresh, sophisticated and perfectly complements the soft, layered looks that are coming through this season.
Sara Aspinall: I’m quite oblivious to trends, although while in Denmark last year I was so impressed with their sustainability dressing: something new, something old, well-styled together. Great design is always ‘trending’ in my opinion.
Favourite colours/materials/styles coming through?
Dayne Johnston: I’m really drawn to the Dark Spice colourway we’ve just released. It’s our seasonal neutral and it carries so much warmth and richness. It’s like cinnamon in colour form. We’ve paired it with forest greens, and those earthy tones are then lifted by the new Protea print, which adds brightness and softness. Together, they bring this elevation to the palette that feels both grounded and refined.
We’ve also been working with ripstop, a utilitarian weave we’ve made in our Fairtrade organic cotton. It’s traditionally workwear, but the Echo jacket and Parker pant we’ve made from it feel refined and wearable for everyday. It’s hard-wearing, durable and versatile. Something you can wear walking the city or just walking the dog.
Juliette Hogan: It’s always black for me - you just can’t beat its versatility and impact. But I’m also drawn to rich, deep greens at the moment.
I’m loving the re-emergence of lace too, especially when it’s done in a modern, restrained way. Our Rosetta dress is a beautiful example - an elevated, timeless piece that brings just the right amount of texture and romance to winter dressing.
Sara Aspinall: Always, for me, natural fibres, wools, cottons. I’m loving our winter shorts - the wool plaid Love shorts - to wear with long boots.
I love wearing shorts under dresses too, the Kamikaze dress is a great piece for that. Loving New Lands knitwear colours, they are working so nicely with everything too!
Also, starting from the base up with comfortable but beautiful lingerie has become important to me. Ohen, a New Zealand brand in store, is made for women of all sizes - this is a hard market but they’ve nailed these shapes and great colours. I’m in love with the Sable and Sand colours, so will be adding another Teardrop bra and matching French briefs to the collection! I’ve road-tested these for over a year and the quality is incredible. We find women with larger cups struggle to find anything sexy and Ohen is perfect for our customers!
The winter piece you’re most lusting after?
Dayne Johnston: The new Kowtow Jasper hoodie, hands down. It’s got this fleecy brushed interior that I’m just obsessed with. We’re heading into the cold here in Wellington and I honestly might just head downstairs and grab it now. It’s the kind of hoodie that feels like a hug.
Juliette Hogan: I’m constantly reaching for our Perino knits this season. They offer the perfect mix of warmth, lightness and softness - effortless to layer and they instantly lift every winter look.
Sara Aspinall: Every year I want the Lela Jacobs Duster coat, although I seem to always miss out! I am getting a U Turtle in Midnight this year though!
What’s an old wardrobe favourite you’ll be dusting off for the winter ahead?
Dayne Johnston: I have this incredible black Raf Simons wool felt coat. I found it in Paris and it was too heavy to wear when I lived in Auckland. But now that I’m in Wellington it’s perfect. It’s one of those pieces I always take with me to Europe in winter.
Juliette Hogan: Tailored black trousers - they really are the ultimate staple. I’ll be revisiting our Luxe Suiting styles from past collections - they slot seamlessly alongside new-season pieces and just get better with time.
Sara Aspinall: Always my 23-year-old Ann D boots; they work with everything, a wise investment! Also, my Data trench from last winter’s collection - we didn’t do a coat this year because I don’t see why you need a new coat every year if you’ve invested in a great one already.
Also, the colours we did work so well with this collection too - we very much plan our collections to wear with our past and present collection colours. Timelessness is so important.
What was the inspiration for your winter collection?
Dayne Johnston: The inspiration came from the landscapes around and within us - celebrating the connection we have with our surroundings. We played a lot with scale, proportion and form. I think it’s best expressed in the Cityscape print which was born from a long exposure photograph I took on my phone, capturing the lights and reflections on the harbour at night when I first moved to Te Whanganui-a-tara, Wellington. The print feels really special to me and captures the energy of this beautiful place. Seeing this juxtaposed against the earthy tones in our latest drop, really brings the inspiration of the collection together.
Juliette Hogan: This season was about resilience and softness co-existing - designing pieces that feel strong yet considered and easy to wear. You see that balance with our tailored outerwear and softer fluid pieces like the Coco Pleat dress, where structure and delicacy meet.
Sara Aspinall: Our Midnight Net print, which has the lyrics from my favourite PJ Harvey song ‘We Float’ scrawled over it. This is the last New Zealand-printed textile we will be able to produce due to the closure of another great manufacturing company. It’s critical New Zealand-made is supported so we can see our industry fashion endure.
In the Harvey dress and the Kamikaze dress, we played with using existing patterns to repeat or flip to make new shapes and silhouettes, like upside-down sleeves for sleeve details or sleeves as skirt shapes.
What are some of your plans for the season ahead?
Dayne Johnston: I’ve just wrapped designing our collection for the second half of 2026 so I’m ready for a bit of a reset. I’ll be taking a break, travelling, getting some new perspectives before diving into the next creative cycle. I always find it hard to leap straight from one collection into another - there needs to be a pause. A space to reflect, recharge and redirect.
Juliette Hogan: Winter is all about layering and texture for me. I’ll be wearing lace dresses layered over black pants, Perino knits under coats and sweaters draped over the shoulders or tied at the neck for added warmth and style - pieces that feel wrapped up but still feeling refined.
Sara Aspinall: This winter I’m breaking my usual hibernation pattern and have plans to get to loads of gigs, so I’ll be wearing comfortable layers so I can be ready for anything! My Wollow sneakers (a new Danish brand we have in store) - they feel like Birkenstocks but for winter! Worn with my Polly top and probably Lust pants as they are so easy to wear with anything!
Also, Lela Jacobs U Arms as they are perfect for throwing over the shoulders or wearing like a scarf. So versatile - I end up tying these around myself when I get hot so I don’t lose them!
