While Central Otago pinot noir may be internationally known and many pinots are a blend of wines from different sub-regions, many of the leading winemakers are exploring wine from different vineyards or blocks within their vineyards.
The fascinating comparative tasting above revealed some of the complexities of Central Otago pinot noir. There were four from Rippon Vineyard on the shores of Lake Wanaka, and five from Mount Edward, which has vineyards in Bannockburn, Lowburn and Gibbston.
Single-vineyard or single-block wines have an individual character (otherwise it would not be worth making them separately), and this can depend on the soils, the microclimate and the way the block faces, things like the viticulture and types of rootstock and clones, and, importantly, on the winemaking style.
As I tasted these nine wines blind, it was clear they fell into two styles, which may be a result of the Rippon wines all coming from Wanaka, and the Mount Edward wines from vineyards in different valleys, but I suspect it is also the different winemaking philosophies and styles of Nick Mills from Rippon and Duncan Forsyth from Mount Edward. Both are meticulous winemakers, farming organically, and, in the case of Rippon, biodynamically.
Mount Edward wines are more typical of Central Otago, with lush cherry and plum fruit and spicy oak, and come from vineyards in Lowburn, Gibbston and a new one in Bannockburn.
The Rippon wines are typically more restrained and textural, with integrated rather than overt fruit and often hints of mineral.
Is a blend better than a single vineyard or block?
Not necessarily - the single blocks have their own character but blends can possibly be more balanced or complete. But winemakers and wine lovers enjoy exploring and comparing the slightly different characters - sometimes differences in texture rather than fruit flavours - that different parcels and vineyards can show through the wines.
