Coronation chicken is usually attributed to the glamorous, high-profile Constance Spry, an English food writer and flower arranger and also co-principal, with Rosemary Hume, of the Cordon Bleu Cookery School in London.
The recipe was widely published at the time of the coronation with Constance Spry's name attached so that it could be made and served at street parties throughout England.
In collaboration with Rosemary Hume, the Constance Spry Cookery Book (often referred to as the British cookery bible) was published in 1956 and coronation chicken features here.
As with many classic dishes, its origins are already clouded with the passage of time.
However, in her introduction to this book, Constance Spry acknowledges that the technical knowledge and most of the recipes are Rosemary Hume's.
Hume's niece confirms this and attributes her aunt's inspiration to a recipe which was the favourite sandwich of Queen Adelaide (wife of William IV): chicken with apricot butter.
So it would appear that Rosemary Hume, a Paris Cordon Bleu graduate and professional chef, was the creator.
It was served at the luncheon for 350 foreign dignitaries who could not be accommodated at Buckingham Palace after the Westminster Abbey ceremony.
Fifty years ago, chicken was a luxurious treat for special occasions.
In this recipe, cold chicken was tossed in a mildly spicy sauce of sautéed curried onions, red wine, tomato purée, apricot purée, mayonnaise and whipped cream.
This most unlikely combination of ingredients actually works.
The recipe gained cult status in the UK as the perfect cold buffet dish; attractive, easy to eat and, best of all, tasty.
The recipe has been subjected to many dodgy reinterpretations, including with leftover chicken, the addition of almonds, sultanas, chili, saffron, apricot jam and tinned apricot pieces.
The original sauce contained copious quantities of mayonnaise, which made it heavy and rather cloying for today's palates.
I've replaced much of the mayonnaise with a creamy yoghurt and added evaporated milk in place of the whipped cream.
The only other change I have made is for cosmetic reasons.
The red wine gives the sauce a rather muddy appearance, so I've used white wine instead.
Coronation chicken made it to New Zealand, of course, and was probably at the peak of its popularity during the early '70s.
If well-made it is delicious.
Succulent pieces of chicken are enveloped in a rich, creamy sauce.
Infused with the zing of apricots and the subtle flavour of curry paste, this is a treat for lunch or dinner.
The other great plus is that it can be made almost entirely ahead of time.
Coronation Chicken
Use a good quality mayonnaise. It is not worth making your own mayonnaise when such a small quantity is required. I use Best Foods' "light" mayonnaise.
1.1kg boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1 to 1 1/2 litres water
For flavouring:
slices of onion and carrot
2 bay leaves
2 handfuls of fresh herbs
6 peppercorns
6 whole cloves
To serve:
Mixed salad greens (mesclun, rocket, baby spinach)
For the sauce:
40g Central Otago dried apricots, chopped
250mls dry white wine
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 Tbsp canola oil
2 Tbsp mild Korma curry paste or
1 Tbsp mild curry powder
1 Tbsp tomato purée
1 cup thick Greek-style yoghurt
1/4 cup "light" mayonnaise
100mls "light" evaporated milk
3 Tbsp lemon juice
Trim the chicken pieces of any fat.
Place the water and flavouring ingredients in a large saucepan or frying pan.
Simmer for 10 minutes.
Place the chicken breasts into the simmering liquid.
There should be enough room for each piece of chicken to lie flat with enough water to barely cover.
Do not boil.
Simmer gently for 12-15 minutes To test for doneness; lift chicken from water and pierce at its thickest part.
If the juices are clear it is cooked, otherwise return to the pan and cook for a few minutes more.
Remove from the liquid and chill quickly.
When cold slice into bite-size pieces.
You can wrap the chicken in foil and store in the fridge for up to 2 days.
Place the apricots in a small bowl and add the wine.
Set aside to soak for 20-30 minutes.
In a medium saucepan, sauté the onions in the oil over low heat until the onions soften without browning, about 3 to 4 minutes.
Add the curry paste or powder, the tomato purée and the apricots and wine.
Simmer very gently, uncovered, for 5-6 minutes until the apricots are very tender.
When cold, place in a food processor, add the yoghurt, mayonnaise, evaporated milk and the lemon juice and purée until smooth.
Store in the fridge covered with cling film for up to 2 days.
Just prior to serving, spread the salad leaves over a large platter.
Stir the chicken pieces into the sauce and spoon this over the salad greens.
Serve with new potatoes and a tomato and cucumber salad.
Serves 6.
- Joan Bishop
