Turkey and ham usually get top billing on a Christmas menu, but I like the sides to steal the show.
Vibrant, flavourful vegetable dishes are an opportunity to bring something different to the table, whether it’s a carefully planned intimate meal or a shared pot-luck affair.
Perfectly roasted - crunchy on the outside, fluffy on the inside - Agria potatoes are their constant companion.
So far so traditional, but things can be taken up a notch through the addition of dressings, sauces and other ingredients that transform vegetables from sides to stars.
My go-to for such vegetable dishes is Queenstown’s Sherwood hotel, where I like to escape for lunch on Christmas Day.
Dining here gives my family of good cooks the day off, because, as much as I enjoy creating gastronomical delights with my loved ones, it can be overwhelming — too many cooks can indeed spoil the broth.
The chilled-out vibe at Sherwood works for young and old. Christmas cocktails in hand, we take our seats, and the team delivers a set of starters to share before moving on to the main event, which usually features salmon and their melt-in-your-mouth wood-fired Lumina lamb shoulder.
The “wow” is ramped up as they place dish after dish of vegetable dishes that surprise and delight.
Executive chef Chris Scott’s caper raisin vinaigrette makes seasonal greens otherworldly and his tahini dressing and dukkah treatment for spring carrots gives the colourful-delicious one-two punch we’re looking for.
Because Scott has a down-to-earth cooking technique, I haven’t had to do much to simplify his recipes for home use.
For sweets I turn to my friend and fellow chef Ray McVinnie, who always brings the right dessert to the party. This fruit salad sparkles with tropical fruit, chilli, lime and coriander ... surprise and delight. ‘Tis the season.
Asparagus with caper raisin dressing
When I thought new season asparagus couldn’t get any better than served just with butter, Scott introduced me to his caper raisin dressing that he also uses to amplify green beans.
With the addition of fresh ricotta, pecorino or parmesan, I am happy to call this a complete meal.
Serves 4
1 bunch (250g) asparagus
Parmesan, for grating
Caper raisin dressing
3 Tbsp raisins
1 Tbsp capers
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
⅛ tsp chilli flakes
2 Tbsp lemon juice
1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
2 Tbsp olive oil
Method
For the caper raisin dressing, soak raisins in hot water for 1 hour then drain and squeeze dry.
Drain the capers then chop the raisins and capers until fine but not a paste and mix in a bowl with garlic, chilli flakes, lemon juice, balsamic and olive oil.
Snap the woody ends off the asparagus and plunge the spears into boiling water for 3 to 5 minutes, depending on the thickness.
Drain and dry on paper towels, toss through the dressing and serve with a shower of finely grated parmesan.
Tropical fruit salad
This adaptation of a Ray McVinnie recipe can be served in a bowl in the middle of the table or in individual parfait glasses.
Ray likes to serve it with coconut cream. Coconut yoghurt, regular cream or ice cream work too. I don’t feel the need to add anything to a refreshing dessert that is great after a big meal.
Serves 4
1 mango, peeled and sliced
½ pineapple, peeled and sliced
2 oranges, peeled and sliced
1 red chilli, thinly sliced
1 lime, zest and juice
1 kaffir lime leaf, central stalk removed and thinly sliced
1 Tbsp coriander stalks, thinly sliced, plus sprigs for serving
3 Tbsp caster sugar
Pinch salt
Pomegranate seeds, optional
Method
Put everything except the pomegranate into a bowl and toss gently.
Spoon into a bowl, platter or parfait glasses and sprinkle with coriander sprigs and pomegranate seeds.
Spring carrots with tahini dressing and dukkah
These carrots make great day-after snacking so make lots. If you can’t access bunches of spring carrots, use regular ones and slice them lengthwise, replacing the carrot tops with Italian parsley.
A jar of home-made dukkah is one of my pantry staples. It adds crunch and flavour to many dishes and can be made using nuts and spices of choice.
Serves 4
2 bunches spring carrots with green tops
2 Tbsp olive oil
Tahini dressing
2 Tbsp apple cider vinegar
1 Tbsp golden syrup
2 Tbsp tahini
1 Tbsp sesame oil
1 Tbsp grapeseed oil
Method
For the tahini dressing, whisk everything together.
Wash and trim the carrots, leaving a little of the green stem. Peel if necessary.
Spread the carrots on a baking paper lined oven tray and drizzle with oil and salt and pepper.
Roast in a 200°C oven for 25-30 minutes until tender and slightly charred.
Remove from the oven and rest until ready to serve, at room temperature.
Toss through the tahini dressing and sprinkle with dukkah and fresh or fried carrot top leaves made by frying picked leaves in a shallow layer of grapeseed oil in a saucepan.
Dukkah
½ cup roasted mixed nuts
¼ cup sesame seeds
2 tsp cumin seeds
2 tsp coriander seeds
2 tsp fennel seeds
½ tsp chilli flakes
½ tsp salt
Black pepper
Method
In a mortar and pestle gentle crush the nuts and place in a bowl.
Toast the sesame seeds in a small pan until just browned. Add to the nuts.
Toast the cumin, coriander and fennel seeds in a small pan for 3-4 minutes then grind in the pestle and mortar and add to the nuts along with the chilli flakes and salt and a good grind of black pepper. Mix and store in an airtight container.
