Spring. A time of renewal, rebirth and growth, lengthening daylight hours and (hopefully) increasing temperatures. A time for coming out of our winter torpor and embracing the new. What new things might we look forward to on the wine front? 2024 vintage white wines Marlborough had a cracking 2024 vintage as did Hawke’s Bay (the latter sorely needed it after the cyclone-fuelled tribulations of vintage ’23). The bold 2024 Marlborough whites, particularly sauvignon blanc and pinot gris, will be available in increasing numbers as the months tick over, while Hawke’s Bay, which has a stronger focus on chardonnay and reds, won’t release many of these wines until next year. 2023 Central Otago pinot noirs Quiet excitement surrounds this vintage, which threatened to be possibly too warm before cooler weather at just the right time slowed things down perfectly, allowing the grapes to ripen to beautiful equilibrium and promising wines of balance yet structure, aromatics, fruit depth yet with bright acidity and likely to prove age worthy. Release cycles mean we’ll mostly see entry level wines for now, but some of the serious ones will begin to trickle on to the market. Albarino Over recent years, wineries and growers have been trialling a number of "alternative" varieties to see what might work well in our climate and wine regions. This white grape, native to northwest Spain and northern Portugal, seems to fit in very well here and is ascendant. Richly textured and fruited with a seashell-like note that is just banging with seafood and shellfish (hey, we’re an island nation). As volumes increase we should see some more competitive pricing. Cabernet franc I’m pushing the boat out here as this grape variety is still relatively uncommon, but there is a growing (albeit small) groundswell of interest in this red variety, which is one of the Bordeaux family of grapes along with cabernet sauvignon, merlot, malbec and petit verdot. DNA testing has now proven it to be one of the parents of cabernet sauvignon. A little more medium-bodied than cab sav with bright aromatics, a touch of leaf and spice. North Canterbury is becoming a hotbed for this variety, as is Hawke’s Bay. There are also examples in Central Otago. Vineyards in Beaujolais, France. PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES Gamay The grape of Beaujolais in France and with only a small footprint in New Zealand vineyards you’ll have to cast your net wider to source local versions. Funnily enough, our biggest producer of this variety, Te Mata in Hawke’s Bay, export heaps of it to the United Kingdom where they lap it up. In stark contrast to primitivo mentioned below, gamay is all about delicacy and lightness of being. Crunchy, vibrant and what the French sometimes dub a "vin de soif" or just simply, "quaffable". People looking for something lighter as we approach summer could have fun with gamay/Beaujolais. Primitivo Fans of richly flavoured, supple, cuddly reds may be drawn to this native of Puglia in Italy. This red grape variety and blends containing it are seriously on the rise. Generous, decadent and often around the $19-$23 price point, which makes it relatively affordable and great bang for buck. Primitivo is the Italian name for the grape, which is also known as zinfandel in California though the Italians are often just a little more sharply priced. You’re unlikely to find too many of these in your local supermarket or bottle store, which tend to focus on Kiwi and Aussie wines, but better wine shops will have jumped on this trend. Bubbles I’m hearing reports from up north that Champagne sales have fallen off a cliff, with people trading down to cremants, methode champenoise, pet-nats, prosecco, cava and more. There’s no shortage of cost-effective bubbly out there and above are three to consider. NV Hunter’s Miru Miru Rose Price $39.90 Rating Excellent That toasty/warm brioche thing is going on here. It shifts to strawberries and cream, evolves again to a lovely perfume, with savoury notes later still. The palate echoes the nose, savoury elements evident picking up zesty cranberry and pink grapefruit nuances. Freshness and vibrancy, full of interest, moving to a delightfully creamy close. www.hunters.co.nz 2019 Hunter’s Miru Miru Reserve Price $42.90 Rating Excellent to outstanding All the classic bready/ biscuity/toasty characters leap to the fore, marmitey, umami aspects, citrusy wisps too. The palate continues the journey, a sense of refinement, great depth of flavour, filling the mouth. Citrus notes grow, teasing with hints of red apple and dried strawberry flitting across the palate. Long, crisp close framed by toast & brioche. www.hunters.co.nz NV Gibbston Valley Methode Traditionelle Extra Brut Price $55 Rating Excellent Bready, biscuity notes leap out, a hint of stony minerality, a citrus backdrop; with aeration umami aspects show too. Very classic nose. Good mousse, very fine bead, walks a nice line between freshness and yeast lees complexity. Develops some lovely savoury, yeast-derived umami notes on the close, balanced by zesty acidity. Nicely done. www.gibbstonvalley.com
