For a rather innocuous plant found down the back of most New Zealand gardens, rhubarb sure does have an amazing history.
Originating in the far eastern regions of western China, Siberia, Tibet and Mongolia, the modern name rhubarb is a derivative of "rhabarbarum", with "rha" referring both to the plant itself and the former name given to the river Volga upon whose banks a variety of rhubarb flourished, and "Barbarum", referring to the supposedly uncivilised people who ate it.
Although today we only really think about rhubarb in a culinary sense, for the ancients rhubarb was highly prized for its medicinal powers as a gentle purgative as well as a binding or astringent agent.
Used for more than 5000 years, the roots and rhizomes (the underground stem) were dried, crushed and dispensed by Chinese physicians to treat myriad disorders including diarrhoea, constipation, jaundice, menstrual ailments, conjunctivitis and burns.
Marco Polo wrote extensively on the subject of rhubarb, and western Europeans were fascinated by this perplexing miracle plant.
Chinese varieties were considered true rhubarb as they contained stronger concentrations of the beneficial medicinal qualities, and the very best plants came from China to Europe via Russian caravans, which grew to be a major state monopoly for Russia.
Other sources of the plant came through the Arabian trade routes and it became a valuable commodity for the East India Company.
In France in the mid-16th century, rhubarb was worth 10 times more than cinnamon and in England in the early 1600s, its price was twice that of the drug opium.
To early western European botanists, rhubarb was a mystifying plant because it was difficult to cultivate in northern climates and efforts to reveal its active chemical principles proved futile.
Equally as puzzling was the fact that the plant itself did not breed true to seed.
It seems a little odd now but back then, the desire fuelled by Renaissance curiosity to understand and possess all things exotic, whipped up a certain rhubarb fever.
In fact, the Opium Wars between England and China during the mid-19th century had more to do with obtaining tea and rhubarb than anything else and only after the forced opening of China to outside trade were the sources officially established and some of rhubarb's secrets finally revealed.
By the 1800s, sugar was widely available and suddenly the possibility of actually eating rhubarb was recognised. The sugar balanced the natural tartness and acidity of the stalks and a culinary craze followed.
Rhubarb, now grown for its fleshy stalks, was used in jams and fillings for tarts, pies and crumbles, sauces and compote, and its familiar sweet/sour taste peaked in popularity between the two world wars.
The colour found in rhubarb varies from crimson red to light pink and light green depending on the species and the way in which it has been grown, but strangely enough, it does not seem to affect the flavour.
New horticultural methods, such as growing plants in hothouses, have resulted in rhubarb being available most of the year and other developments, such as dark-houses, have cultivated a sweeter and more tender stalk, perfect for eating.
Rhubarb is one of the first spring vegetables ready to harvest after a long winter and is easy to grow.
What better remedy for just about any ailment than a classic rhubarb crumble?
Subtle, comforting and delicious at anytime. Finish a spring picnic lunch with a simple rhubarb and almond tart.
And what to do when those plants go absolutely crazy? Jam of course. Enjoy.
Rhubarb and almond tart with Chantilly cream
Serves 10
750g rhubarb stalks, washed and chopped into 2cm pieces
1 litre cold water
125g unsalted butter, softened
450g granulated white sugar
150g ground almonds
20g plain flour
3 large free-range eggs
300ml cream, lightly whipped
Sweet shortcrust pastry -
350g unsalted butter, room temperature
150g icing sugar
4 free range egg yolks
500g plain flour
2 tablespoons cold water
Cream butter and sugar together then add yolks, one at a time, mixing well. Mix in flour and just enough water to bring the pastry together. Knead lightly, roll into ball, wrap in cling wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes or overnight.
Unwrap pastry, slice thinly and press pastry slices into a 28cm fluted pie tin with removable base. Ensure pastry is evenly and thinly spread, about 2mm thick, then remove excess pastry from around the edges.
Refrigerate for 30 minutes then blind bake in a 180degC oven for 15 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from oven and cool.
To make the tart filling bring water to the boil in a medium-sized saucepan, add the rhubarb and 300g of the sugar and bring to the boil again.
Strain the rhubarb in a colander for 30 minutes. Reserve the strained liquid and reduce in a small pot, over a high heat, by half. Keep liquid to pour over tart when serving.
In a mixing bowl cream butter and remaining sugar together then add the ground almonds, flour and then the eggs, one by one and mix well.
Spoon rhubarb into the baked pastry shell, cover with the almond mixture and bake for 30 minutes or until golden.
Allow to cool and serve with Chantilly cream and rhubarb sauce.
Crumble with vanilla bean ice cream
Serves 8
1500g rhubarb stalks, washed and chopped into 2cm pieces
250g white sugar
4 tablespoons cold water
200g plain flour
100g unsalted butter
100g soft brown sugar
Place sugar and water into a heavy-based saucepan and bring to the boil. Boil until sugar starts to turn golden then add rhubarb pieces.
Reduce temperature to a gentle heat and stir until soft. Pour into a 1.5-litre capacity oven-proof baking dish and allow to cool.
To make crumble, rub the butter into the white flour with fingertips and add sugar. Scatter over the top of the rhubarb and bake in a 180degC oven until golden.
Serve with vanilla bean ice cream.
Rhubarb and ginger jam
Make this jam when the rhubarb is in early or full season so the stalks will not be thick and tough. Makes 12 x 300ml jars
2kg rhubarb stalks, washed and chopped into 2cm pieces
2kg granulated white sugar
zest and juice of 2 lemons
1x 5cm piece fresh ginger, lightly bruised with a heavy knife and wrapped in muslin
50g crystallised ginger
Place rhubarb in a bowl and cover with sugar, lemon zest and juice. Leave to stand overnight.
Place into a large heavy-based stainless steel pot, add ginger and stir over a low heat until sugar is dissolved.
Bring to the boil and continue to boil rapidly for 10 minutes or until the jam sets.
Remove the fresh ginger and pour the hot jam into clean sterilised jars.
Screw on the sterilised jar lids and store in a cool dark place.
- Bevan and Monique Smith own the award-winning restaurant and cafe Riverstone Kitchen just south of the Waitaki Bridge on SH1.
