It's a concept wine buffs love to explore and some of the leading wine producers are examining the expression of their vineyards in this way.
Expect to see more top-end, single-vineyard wines.
Recently I tasted Escarpment's five pinot noirs, made by Larry McKenna, one of the country's most experienced and respected pinot noir makers.
There are three single-vineyard wines from around the Martinborough township, and two from the home vineyard in Te Muna Rd about 5km away.
The differences are not only in flavours, varying between red and darker, more brooding fruit, but also in texture from silky smooth to crisp taffeta, and in colour, with varying brightness and shades of garnet and ruby.
I was charmed by the 2009 Pahi ($65), from 25-year-old vines on their own roots, mainly the old 10/5 clone, which is sometimes regarded as a workhorse.
However, on heavier soils it has produced a rich wine with red fruits, dark, brooding undertones, layers of flavour, fine-grained tannins and a long finish. Larry McKenna suggests it will continue to develop for 15 years.
The 2009 Kiwa and Te Rehua are more similar, coming from deep alluvial gravels across the village from the Pahi vineyard.
Te Rehua ($65) is a sheltered vineyard with 23-year-old vines and the wine is spicy with dark fruits and hints of coffee and dark chocolate, it finishes with firm tannins.
Escarpment 2009 ($45) is fragrant, spicy and textural with red and dark fruits, savoury undertones, and a firm finish.
Kupe 2009 ($85) is from the close-planted home vineyard established 12 years ago that is McKenna's flagship.
It is floral and fragrant with red rather than dark fruits and an underlying crisp backbone, a texture like crinkly taffeta, firm, dusty tannins and hints of dark chocolate on the long aftertaste.
But what stood out with this was the underlying charm, restrained generosity and harmony.
Like most of the others, McKenna suggests it will continue to develop for 10 years.
