It's often been pointed out that Central Otago's highly acclaimed pinot noir has not been proven age-worthy, so it was fascinating when Richard Bunton, one of the proprietors of Rockburn, opened bottles of all the pinots his company has produced.
The earliest ones, 1998 and 1999, were under the Hay's Lake label and were made from his vineyard above the lake near where Amisfield is now.
Fruit from Gibbston was included in 2000. These early wines were browning but several were still drinkable, if a bit thin and lacking in fruit.
However, from 2002, the year that put Central Otago pinot noir on the map, the wines showed more of Central's characteristic dark berry fruit, perhaps because fruit from Rockburn's vineyard in the Cromwell basin vineyard started to come on stream.
2002 was a hot vintage producing ripe fruit, and big, almost muscly wines.
The Rockburn 2002 was still big but more charming than I remember it in its youth,2003 was not as hot so the wines were not as big, and consequently it tended to be underrated, but it was always charming and it is lovely to see it has retained its charm 10 years later and is perhaps even lusher than it was originally.
This certainly shows that good Central pinot can easily develop for a decade.2004 was a difficult season with early frosts that put a stop to ripening, but the wine was mellowing and surprisingly drinkable.
The 2005 was concentrated with lively acidity, the 2006 a tad edgy, but the 2007 was probably the best of the lot - perfumed, charming, still youthful and intense with lush fruit.
2008 was developing a hint of forest floor under the still-sweet fruit and the 2009 was silky and tingly with a satisfying finish.
2010 was another winner - fragrant, spicy with lovely mellowing fruit and a long aftertaste.
It's drinking nicely now but will continue to develop for another 5-6 years.
2011, which had just won a gold medal at one of the European competitions, was silky and charming, perhaps lighter than some vintages because of the cooler year.
The 2012, not yet released, is still a tad raw but promising, with oodles of spicy red fruits, and already showing the harmony that will enable it to benefit from at least five or six years' cellaring.
Rockburn also produces a barrel selection of its best wines in good years.
The 2006 Eight Barrels was rich with firm acidity and still youthful but perhaps lacking character, the 2009 Twelve Barrels was lively and textural with spicy, juicy fruit and perhaps more youthful than the regular 2009.
To my mind the best of the wines was the 2010 Art, from a Bannockburn vineyard - rich, spicy, intense with oodles of berry cherry fruit and great balance and harmony.
It's drinking beautifully now, and looks as if it will still be delicious in another decade.
It would appear from this tasting that in the best years, not necessarily the hottest, some Central Otago pinots will certainly continue to develop and improve for 6-8 years if well cellared.
As the vineyards mature we can expect the best to be even more age-worthy. After all, it's only 15 years since the wine world began to notice Central Otago and a decade since its reputation started building.
