Pinot noirs are pouring on to wine shop and supermarket shelves these days. A big 2008 vintage and more vineyards coming into production mean more labels. Some are aiming for igh quality and prices to match, but most seem to be treading the middle ground - $25 to $35.
Unfortunately, I've found very little enjoyable pinot under $20.
BEST VALUE
$26
One of the better "cheaper'' labels from Central, this has savoury undertones, earthy suggestions of bush tracks, and ripe fruit hinting of plums and cherries. Simple but very drinkable.
Good value
3 stars (out of 5)
$30
A new label from Wild Earth, this has inviting aromas, lots of cherries and berries supported by masses of spicy oak, and a tingly finish. An juicy wine that makes up in attractiveness what it might lack in subtlety.
Average value
3 stars
$21
Despite the edgy hints of pepper and cherry plums and the roughness of youth, this wine has a pleasant fruit and spicy oak on the palate and a decent aftertaste. Could be good value if it mellows. Cellar for a few months or drink with something hearty like a lamb stew with mash to balance the sharpness.
Below average value
2 stars
$40
A delicious wine from a vineyard tucked away beyond the end of Felton Rd. It oozes ripe cherries and berries with nicely balanced hints of spicy oak, has a crisp, silky texture and a seductive, dark undertone with a lively finish.
Average value
4 stars
$39
Oodles of toasty oak redolent with chocolate and spice dominate the dark berry fruit at present, but this is a complex, textural wine with depth of flavour. I expect a few more months will allow the flavours to harmonise a little more. Meanwhile, a bottle for lovers of oaky wines.
Below average value
3 stars
$35
At three years old, this is showing the charm that Gibbston-grown wine can develop. It's complex, fragrant with ripe berries and cherry plums with a lively edge and savoury undertone hinting of bush tracks and undergrowth, all supported by nicely balanced, spicy oak.
Below average value
3 stars
ANOTHER GLASS
$40
A spicy wine with a hint of mint, cherries and plums, with dark underlying tones of oak and licorice, nicely integrated with an attractive, lingering finish.
Average value
4 stars
$42
A rich, spicy, wine, with darker, more savoury flavours typical of Martinborough, but attractive plums, berries and mineral, a fleshy palate and a long, tingly finish. A youthful wine that will develop with another year or so in the bottle.
Average value
4 stars
$56
A big wine, with spicy oak and hints of furniture polish bolstering the sweet but slightly edgy fruit and crisp finish. At present it lacks harmony, but those who prefer bigger pinots may enjoy it.
Below average value
4 stars
Two stars - simple, clean, enjoyable wine; three stars - good wine with varietal characteristics; four stars - very good wine with some outstanding characteristics; five stars - outstanding wine with balance and harmony that leaves you with a sense of wonder.
Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine tasting nd evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations. charmian.smith@odt.co.nz
