Fruity ripeness of pinot gris but not too sweet

It has been a little while since I sat down to a selection of Pinot Gris and I was delighted with the showing of the assembled wines. Somewhat like Riesling, Pinot Gris can be all over the place in terms of residual sugar, and like many consumers I can be very happily seduced by a touch of sweetness.

This group; however, managed to showcase their fruit ripeness without becoming over-sweet and my notes were filled with comments referring to their zestiness or tanginess which I found rather appealing. Hope you do too?

2023 Monte Christo Central Otago Pinot Gris

 
Price: RRP $35
Rating: Very Good to Excellent
 
Nutty/cashew nut, 
shifts to white 
flowers, honeyed 
notes, a wisp of pear. 
The palate nicely 
echoes the nose, a 
sense of delicacy to 
this, honey and pear 
notes to the fore yet 
this closes relatively 
dry with a combo of 
citrus and nuttiness 
framing that finish. 
With aeration, pear 
builds on the nose 
while the close adds 
a refreshing 
bittersweet quality.
 
 

2023 Quartz Reef Bendigo Pinot Gris

 
Price: RRP $35
Rating: Excellent to Outstanding
 
Hits the savoury 
notes out of the gate, 
a minerally quality, 
the fruit & fragrance 
building as it opens 
up, a musky aspect 
later. A cooler feel, 
bright & crisp in the 
mouth, the fruit 
swaying between 
white peach & 
stonefruits, retaining 
that minerally quality, 
once again fruit sweet 
yet a tangy element 
keeps this fresh. 
Quiet complexity to 
this, more serious.
 
 

2022 Astrolabe Sleepers Vineyard Kekerengu Coast Pinot Gris

 
Price: RRP $30
Rating: Excellent
 
Nicely fruited, fruit 
cordial and stonefruits 
are joined by a 
seasoning of spice, 
quite expressive, 
something between 
mineral & Turkish 
delight with time. The 
palate adds pear to the 
equation, a core of 
minerality, a little citrus, 
the long dry close 
bringing lip-smacking 
sapidity. Refinement, 
the flavours hang in the 
mouth, lemon peel 
notes refresh the finish.
 
 

2023 Astrolabe Province Marlborough Pinot Gris

 
Price: RRP $28
Rating: Excellent
 
Quite floral, 
honeysuckle, pear, a 
touch of dry honey. Rich 
in the mouth, oily/
creamy, fat, super 
richness & fruit 
intensity, riffing between 
pear & nectarine, spice 
notes also in the mix. 
For all its power it 
remains surprisingly 
light on its feet, some 
real zestiness on the 
long finish adding a lip-
smacking feel. With 
aeration more grip, 
nicely balanced, 
drinking superbly.
 
 

2023 Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris

 
Price: RRP $24.99
Rating: Very Good to Excellent
 
Dances between citrus 
and white flowers, fruit 
building, a nutty 
undercurrent. The 
palate continues the 
theme, citrusy 
qualities leading the 
way, an engaging 
bittersweet aspect 
reminiscent of apricot 
kernel melds with the 
fruit on the dry finish. 
There’s a real 
tanginess here, 
accentuating nectarine 
notes. Dreaming of 
chicken in a creamy 
sauce to pair with this.
 

2023 Domain Road Defiance Bannockburn Pinot Gris

 
Price: RRP $30
Rating: Excellent
 
Rather beguiling nose, 
musk, flower petal, 
rose, pear, hints of 
apricot, quite complex. 
A richness & generosity 
to the palate, the fruit 
bold & expressive, 
contrasted by spice and 
nutty elements, fruit 
sweetness here but 
closing just off-dry. Am 
I seduced by the hint of 
sweetness here, 
possibly yes, but it is 
equally complex and 
interesting. Lots to 
enjoy.
 

 

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