Marlborough winery Seresin is releasing six 2007 pinot noirs from its three vineyards. It's a lot, compared even with wineries that are pinot noir specialists, especially as the cheapest is the Leah ($37) with the three single-vineyard wines (Home alluvial soils, Raupo Creek from the Omaka Valley clay slopes, and Tatou from alluvial shingle) ($50 each), the Rachel ($55) and the premium Sun & Moon ($120), which is made only in suitable years and will be released in February.
It's a result of new vineyard manager Colin Ross and new winemaker Clive Dougall's first vintage together, according to owner and film-maker Michael Seresin. The vineyards are moving towards biodynamic certification, using horse-drawn sprayers and lots of compost.
The common characteristic of these pinots was the concentrated fruit supported but not dominated by spicy oak, although the percentages of new and used oak were different.
Some had darker, brooding flavours than others, but all were textural and well balanced. All are delicious and choosing among them is difficult, but wine aficionados will relish a comparative tasting.
The Leah is best value at present, but the Sun & Moon probably has the longest ageing potential.