Replacing the boards

Opinion is divided as to which of the two types of board is the most attractive: rusticated (left...
Opinion is divided as to which of the two types of board is the most attractive: rusticated (left) or bevel back. Be assured they both weather the weather adequately. Of the two types, ‘‘rusticated’’ is the easier to install. Photos: Peter Dowden.
Jemmying off the old boards.
Jemmying off the old boards.
When they are this bad, they just have to go.
When they are this bad, they just have to go.
Building paper is cheap, so you don’t need to be. Give generous overlaps and always keep in mind...
Building paper is cheap, so you don’t need to be. Give generous overlaps and always keep in mind the track of an imagined drop of water draining down behind your new boards.
The thickness of the battens creates the cavity for any moisture to drain or ventilate away...
The thickness of the battens creates the cavity for any moisture to drain or ventilate away inside your wall.
These channels carved in the wood prevent rainwater percolating up through the joints. These pre...
These channels carved in the wood prevent rainwater percolating up through the joints. These pre-primed pale blue weatherboards are worth the extra expense as they arrive on-site waterproof so won’t warp and split as they absorb and release moisture.

The boards on Dunedin’s many, many wooden houses don’t last forever. So when it’s time to replace, there are a few tricks that can make the job go more smoothly, writes Peter Dowden.

Dunedin and Otago have plenty of weatherboard buildings, often made from the forest that was cleared to make room for more settlements. They can be draughty and cold, and a classic complaint here in the South is that the wallpaper billows inwards during a gust of wind. So you’ve relined all the rooms, putting insulation in the external walls as you go ... Then the weatherboards, already on the shabby side, start rotting in earnest.

The void inside the walls was probably keeping your old boards sound and rot-free with constant ventilation until you stuffed it up by insulating. So follow the practice of most modern builders and you will find the job easier and probably get several extra years out of your house’s next round of cladding.

The essential extra is battens of the cheapest rough-sawn treated pine normally used to edge lawns and flowerbeds. 50x25 strips (two-by-one in the old style) are nailed to your studs over the building paper and this gives a waterproofed breathing space behind your boards that will keep them dry and rot free for years to come.

Old framing in your house can be hard as steel in some places and a trifle soft in others, so a bonus of these new battens is they provide a stable new surface to attach your weatherboards.

At the bottom of the cavity there needs to be room to allow air in and moisture out; the professionals add a mesh mouse barrier here sized to match the battens.

Before you start: Make sure your house is worth re-cladding (it might have failing foundations or so much rot that it is big orange digger time). Get good advice from hardware suppliers and your local council about materials and how much of this you are allowed to do yourself.

Add a Comment