Brisbane Tattoo to-do list

Ellen Hill discovers what to see, do and taste in Brisbane during the 75th Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo in February 2026.

Slumped in a chair watching condensation droplets slide down the outside of a glass of chardonnay, I watch the lights in the office towers across the Brisbane River gradually blink on as the city awakens.

Stifling a yawn, I realise how tired I am.

It’s a good kind of tired, the reward of exploring a walkable city where every turn offers something new.

This is day 3 of four and we’ve clocked up more than 60,000 steps, for those who find that important.

We’ve also splashed out on public transport ... $1 each.

Getting around costs next to nothing — ferries, trains and buses are easy and cheap. Any time is good to explore the capital of Queensland, and while the 75th Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo will march across the Tasman to Auckland’s Eden Park afterwards, the Brisbane tattoo in February is the perfect excuse for an Aussie summer holiday.

This river city of light and water is crammed with cruises, cultural precincts, activities and world-class dining, with day trips just a train ride away. The CityCat ferries (nicknamed "KittyCats") glide up and down the waterway, connecting districts like South Bank, New Farm and Hamilton. There’s also the red CityHopper, which lets you hop between inner-city stops for free.

There are 16 bridges that span the river, including well-known Story Bridge and the Kangaroo Point Green Bridge, that make criss-crossing between the CBD on foot or bike a cinch.

A trip to Brisbane wouldn’t be complete without walking the city’s popular riverside precinct and traditional lands of the Turrbal and Yuggera people, South Bank.

After pausing at the "BRISBANE" sign for the obligatory selfie, we ramble along the Clem Jones Promenade, pausing to dip our toes in Streets Beach, Australia’s only man-made inner-city lagoon.

We roam the riverside boardwalks through a cool rainforest and soak in the tranquil vibes of the Nepalese peace building.

Further along, the fragrance of variegated cumquat lures us from the Bougainvillea-covered walkway into the Epicurious Garden, where you can learn how to grow and cook your own veggies, herbs, fruits and edible flowers. Crossing the Goodwill Bridge to the City Botanic Gardens, we escape the heat among the native and exotic plants and trees and roam around the lily ponds, rainforest and bamboo grove dotted among colourful garden beds and lawned areas. Another must-see — and freebie — is the city’s newest landmark, the Brisbane Skydeck.

Open from 6.30am till 10.30pm (or midnight on Friday and Saturday), the 360-degree views stretching from the winding Brisbane River to the distant Glass House Mountains are impressive.

It’s all the better seated beneath a Parisian-style parasol sharing king prawn crumpets and a pinot gris at Pompette or tucking into breakfast, a flatbread sando, at Babblers on the Skydeck itself. At sunset, the skyline glows pink and gold, the river turns to molten light, and the Wheel of Brisbane turns slowly on South Bank.

There are plenty of good eateries in the CBD and across the river along South Bank, where you can choose for taste and budget.

Peking duck, dim sum and Sichuan spice meets Queensland seafood under chandeliers at Donna Chang on the corner of Adina Apartment Hotel, a reborn heritage-listed bank, it’s perfect for a post-Tattoo feast. Across the river, aperitivo at Otto Osteria gives way to the Mediterranean flavours of head chef Will Cowper’s handmade pasta, coral trout carpaccio in the Ristorante, and wines poured with easy authority by French head sommelier Antoine Heurtier.

The Tattoo experience is steeped in Scottish tradition and storytelling sure, but the only true way to connect to this country is through the world’s oldest continuous culture. Quandamooka woman and Yura Tours owner Elisha Kissick’s Meanjin (Brisbane) to Minjerribah (North Stradbroke Island) tour is a 45-minute ferry ride from the mainland and a chance to wind down from the thunderous Tattoo.

Stories and sharing about women’s business, traditional life, bush remedies and tucker on the banks of Bummiera (Brown Lake) and the clifftop of Mulumba (Point Lookout) overlooking the pulsing blue Pacific Ocean contrast with the glass towers of the city. The tour is part of Discover Aboriginal Experiences, a flagship collective of Aboriginal-guided journeys across Australia.

Another low-impact, carbon-free option to stretch your legs and cover more ground than walking beyond the city is the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail, a self-guided bike trail that starts at Ipswich, one-hour train trip from Brisbane’s Central Station. E-bikes from BVRT Cycles made the 33km trail from Coominya to Fernvale an easy escape through farmland with lowing cows, pockets of native bush and historic bridge crossings and cuttings, and we were back in Brisbane by dusk.

At night, the city hums with Australia’s largest free live music programme just steps from central hotels like Adina Apartment Hotel, with its spacious rooms, views and kitchenettes for lazy breakfasts. On the way to the airport, we discover at Maniax Axe Throwing in the city centre that the thunk of steel meeting timber is oddly satisfying.

Exploring Brisbane requires little more than curiosity.

The Tattoo may be the main event in February, but it is Brisbane itself that lingers bright, generous and unforgettable.

 

75th Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo 2026

One of the world’s most spectacular and emotionally charged live events, the Tattoo will feature more than 1000 performers, led by the magnificent massed pipes and drums from UK military regiments.

Combining the best of Scottish tradition and spirit with cultural performances from a global cast, the Tattoo is famed for its stirring finale featuring the Lone Piper.

The 75th Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo will be at Brisbane (Suncorp Stadium) from February 12 — 14 and Auckland (Eden Park) on February 19 & 21, 2026.

Tickets: edintattoobrisbane.com.au and edintattooauckland.co.nz

— Ellen & David Hill visited Brisbane as guests of TFE Hotels, Tourism Australia, Donna Chang, Otto Ristorante, World Expeditions, Maniax and Brisbane Festival.