When it comes to cycling, it’s no surprise to learn that New Zealand is considered the mecca of the South Pacific. Given the investment and variety of trails, the South Island predictably attracts record numbers of visitors.
The panoramic views and rugged mountain trails offer a unique sense of isolation and a welcome respite from the city. But not everyone has time to set aside multiple days for cycling, so having the option to do single-day rides is a bonus.
The Lake Dunstan and Roxburgh trails are classified as easy to intermediate level and an ideal way to combine cycling with exploring historical towns in this region.
Lake Dunstan trail
After the informative briefing at Trail Journeys, the shuttle takes us to Cromwell to start the 38km ride to Clyde. There is an option to cycle an additional 13km section starting at Smiths Way, north of Cromwell.
The upside of starting in Cromwell is that it enables you to walk around the Heritage Precinct, a curated collection of early pioneer history, perched at the junction of the Kawarau and Clutha arms of Lake Dunstan.
The impressively preserved buildings are representative of various trades dating back to the late 1860s’ gold rush, including the only remaining industrial building, the Wishart’s Smithy.
Most of Cromwell’s main street was submerged when Lake Dunstan was formed behind the newly constructed Clyde Dam in 1993.
It’s a classic South Island bluebird day and other than a lightweight jacket and drink bottle, there was little else to consider.
We cycle through wine country and over Bannockburn Bridge to reach Carrick Winery for lunch. Having tackled a few steep hills, I feel obliged to reward myself with a tasting flight of their "library" selection. We enjoy a relaxed lunch overlooking the lakefront, knowing the hardest part about stopping is the simple fact you need to get moving again.
We’re back on the bike and heading through the Cromwell Gorge. It’s impossible to take a wrong turn, as long as the Clutha-Mata-au River remains in view.
Crossing several swing bridges, we cycle the cantilevered clip-on sections that wrap around the cliff. The engineering is a feat and a credit to the Central Lakes and Otago Community Trust who showed great insight helping to fund these trails, subsequently creating tourism opportunities for the region.
The serious uphill grind is worth the effort, given the steep downward slope which is nothing short of exhilarating. It’s easy to see why the Dunstan trail is one of New Zealand’s most popular. Anticipation builds as we spot a sign indicating Coffee and Burger Afloat from a boat docked in the sheltered inlet. But coffee will have to wait as today it’s closed.
We pass Jackson Creek on the final leg of the trail and I notice ominous clouds looming ahead. Within minutes the heavens open and we’re cycling in sheet rain. I note there’s still plenty of battery charge and make the switch to turbo.
It’s a relief to reach Clyde. Known as Upper Dunstan in the 1860s, the settlement town of canvas dwellings would see up to 40,000 miners living in shanty-style conditions during the gold rush on the Clutha River. It’s hard to conceive how they endured Central Otago’s bitter, below-zero winters.
This historic precinct is one of a handful of authentically preserved towns in New Zealand.
We arrive at Oliver’s Hotel and Stables and it’s without doubt one of the most charming properties. Originally established by Englishman Benjamin Naylor in the 1860s, it was known as The Victoria Store, serving as a general grocery shop for miners and local families.
The most recent restoration to the hotel was carefully overseen by owners David and Andrea Richie who ensured the preservation and heritage of the original building.
I’m completely drenched and in need of a hot shower, but grinning as though I’d won Lotto. It’s impossible to describe that euphoric feeling after a spectacular day cycling.
There are several good restaurant options in Clyde, but we opt for dinner and a well-earned Central Otago Pinot at Oliver’s restaurant, toasting a great finish to the Dunstan trail.
Roxburgh gorge trail
Clyde is one of a handful of authentically preserved towns in New Zealand and our day begins early with a hot breakfast in the charming side wing at Oliver’s Hotel and Stables.
A short walk to the far end of Sunderland St brings you to the Dunstan Times building established in 1864 and home to Central Otago’s first newspaper, the Dunstan Times. The building was later sold to the Otago Daily Times (Allied Press) in 1948 and the Central Otago News was launched.
An impressive building catches my eye. The area began as a tent site, later becoming the Port Phillip Hotel. A fire ravaged the building in the early 1900s and after extensive work it reopened as the Commercial Hotel. It has since undergone multiple makeovers, the most recent transformation being The Lord Clyde Hotel.
One of the earliest known hotels, the Hartley Arms, built in 1869, now operates as a private residence and accommodation.
It’s an easy morning enjoying the town’s rich history, but we are conscious of the need to cycle a few kilometres to start the 30km Roxburgh Gorge trail.
The first leg of the track is narrow and cuts through the forest. It’s refreshing to see an elevated walking track that separates hikers from cyclists.
The trail continues for 10km with intermittent glimpses of the river through Crack Willow trees. We cross the bridge heading to Alexandra township and grab a coffee at the Tin Goose.
From this point, you head towards the Roxburgh Gorge trail with a 10km cycle to Doctors Point.
However, despite the double espresso and having way too much faith in Google maps, we somehow take a wrong turn.
After an overwhelming gut intuition that we’re on the wrong route, I acquiesce to my husband’s insistence to “keep going, we’re all good,” for a further 30 minutes.
Having reached a dead end, we grind to an abrupt halt at a deserted wastewater plant that doesn’t bear any resemblance to the River Trail.
A quick call to Travel Journeys depot for further clarification and we’re back on the bikes retracing the route, albeit close to divorce.
This section of the trail is nothing short of stunning and my only regret was we were cycling 35kmh to ensure we wouldn’t miss the boat.
I catch flashes of emerald green, stark rock and clumps of tea-tree as we race along the track. It occurs to me this would not be the place to crash off the bike, given the difficult access. Time was not on our side with less than 30 minutes to get to Doctors Point boat ramp to meet Clutha River Jets to transfer cyclists with bikes through the gorge.
As the day warms up, I’m aware of an ever-present aroma of thyme and later learn that the prolific herb is courtesy of Frenchman Jean Desire Feraud, the first mayor of Clyde, who imported it from Provence and planted along the river bank in the 1860s.
During summer, swathed in a carpet of highly fragrant flowers, the hills take on a purple tinge.
Feraud was also influential in the early stages of the Central Otago wine industry and in 1864 planted several vines on his estate, now known as the Monte Cristo Winery.
Skidding into the meet point, the bikes were loaded on to the jetboat and we joined a lively group of Australians chortling about New Zealand and wondering why they’d waited their entire life to visit.
We cruise through the gorge and pass several remnant stone huts dotted on the stark barren countryside.
After an entertaining overview of mining history, we arrive at Shingle Creek to complete the final leg of the trail.
The narrow track with multiple switch-backs requires tight turns and serious focus, to accommodate cyclists coming from the opposite direction.
The river is a mesmerising shade of blue and we stop to eat bagels on the side of the cliff, the best lunch spot on the trail.
With just 10km to the finish line there are a few steep inclines and I pass a cyclist on a regular bike digging in with all he had to get up the hill.
We cross the Roxburgh Hydro Dam and follow the Clutha Gold Trail before reaching Roxburgh township to meet the shuttle. Within an hour we’re transported back to Clyde and on the road to Queenstown.
I’m reminded of the ease and proximity to South Island’s remote and spectacular landscape. As far as the cycling goes, it comes close to being the best way to enjoy the great outdoors.
It’s late afternoon as we arrive at Hulbert House, known as the Jewel of Queenstown.
Protected by a New Zealand Historic Places covenant, the 1888 Victorian villa has been beautifully restored as a boutique hotel with stunning views of Lake Whakatipu and the surrounding area.
From the moment we enter the gardens, you sense the grace and nostalgia of a bygone era.
Each room is uniquely curated with antique French furniture, custom-milled carpets, heritage-tiled bathrooms and elegant English wallpapers.
We join a few guests in the luxurious Palm Lounge to sample a selection of Central Otago wines and canapes.
When I’m asked by foreigners which are the most beautiful places to visit in New Zealand, I usually respond by saying the majority of the South Island.
With its stunning geography, rugged mountains, spectacular lakes and genuinely friendly people, it has an unparalleled kind of magic. And don’t get me started on the outstanding wine selection.
We toast the region and I’m already researching for the next great outdoors adventure.
