There is often a perception that distant or far-off lands open the door to life-changing experiences and even enlightenment in a way that is not possible in a local environment.
While not discounting the benefits of foreign travel, we should not underestimate the magnificence of our own provincial landscapes and history. This realisation was recently reinforced when I joined my two brothers Tom (the driver) from Blenheim, David from London and son Ian on a journey across the first part of The Old Dunstan Trail, also known as The Old Dunstan Road.
Access to the road is from Clark’s Junction and crosses the southern part of the Rock and Pillar Ranges, coming out at Paerau. The trail was created during the Central Otago gold rush in the 1860s, providing at that time the shortest route to the gold fields.
One can only imagine the challenges faced by these early pioneers in crossing this remote and difficult country in coaches, wagons, on horse, by foot and having to endure the heat of summer and bitterly cold winter conditions.
In contrast, we were comfortably cocooned in a sturdy car under a cloudless sky and enjoying warm and calm conditions. Apart from a few kilometres of tarseal the road has a gravel surface and although reasonably maintained, not surprisingly there are some bumpy and uneven patches. Several fords would likely pose challenges following heavy rain.
The landscape is predominantly tussock with numerous rocky outcrops and gullies. There is a captivating emptiness and stillness. A stunning sense of remoteness and isolation. The road climbs steadily to reach a high point of around 1000m. Several dams dot the area, with the Loganburn being close to the road. Construction of this dam-reservoir was completed in 1983 and provides significant irrigation to around 60 farmers and is also a source for power generation.
From its high point the road drops dramatically to Paerau (also known as The Styx), this being a small settlement in the upper valley of the Taieri River. In Greek mythology, souls had to cross the river Styx to get to the underworld. This river was seen to be dark and foreboding. Styx Creek runs into the Taieri River near Paerau and appeared to be in good condition.
The surrounding countryside is green and fertile, in contrast to the relatively barren and desolate land we had passed through earlier. It was intriguing to come across a well-established distillery on a farm nearby, producing quality whisky and gin. A good example of farming initiative and diversification. We had an interesting chat with an Australian who had come over from Melbourne for a week’s fishing. He was a good conversationalist, but coy about likely fish spots.
From Paerau, a relatively short drive leads to Patearoa, where Otago Daily Times columnist Jim Sullivan resides. Then on to Ranfurly for a celebratory drink and reminiscences of the day. Returning to Dunedin it was striking to see a Dunedin City sign on a bleak hillside not far from Hyde, with the only obvious residents there being the odd rabbit and sheep. On reflection, much of the day’s driving was within the Dunedin City boundaries.
Middlemarch revived memories of an era when annual singles balls were held there, where it was hoped that eligible farmers might find a partner. It was a great party time, with many travelling by train from Dunedin. I’m not sure how many farmers were beneficiaries of this, though.
There is more of The Old Dunstan Trail left to explore. This will have to wait for another day.
My brothers have now returned to their respective communities, but memories of a wonderful time in this unique and special place will remain. Adventures are close by, right on our doorstep. No need for foreign travel and complicated schedules. How good is that?
— Joss Miller is a retired Dunedin lawyer.
