Kiwi costume designer adds Oscar to accolades

Dame Anna Wintour (left) presented the Academy Award to Kate Hawley for her work on Frankenstein....
Dame Anna Wintour (left) presented the Academy Award to Kate Hawley for her work on Frankenstein. Photo: Getty Images

New Zealand designer Kate Hawley has added an Oscar to her collection of awards for Best Costume Design for the film Frankenstein.

Hawley, of Wellington, won a Bafta a few weeks earlier for the movie directed by Guillermo del Toro.

She collected the prized golden statue from former Vogue editor Dame Anna Wintour, now global chief content officer and artist director at Condé Nast, and Devil Wears Prada actress Anne Hathaway at the Academy Awards in Los Angeles on Sunday (local time).

"On behalf of myself and the amazing team that I work with - the artisans, the alchemists, the dream weavers - we are so grateful to the Academy for recognising our craft," Hawley told the audience at Dolby Theatre.

"I'm so so grateful and thank you very much for recognising our craft."

When Hawley signed on for Frankenstein her third collaboration with director del Toro, she knew it would be special, she previously told RNZ's Nine to Noon programme.

“I can really look back on it and be very thankful for the project, it was a wonderful project to be on, it was a very, very special collaboration.”

Winners of the gold Oscar statuettes are chosen by the roughly 10,000 actors, producers, directors and ‍film craftspeople who make up the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences.

In January, Hawley was judged best costume designer at the Critics' Choice Movie Awards and late last year named the British Fashion Council's inaugural Costume Designer of the Year. 

Hawley's work has been seen in a host of other movies, including Edge of Tomorrow, Mortal Engine, Suicide Squad, Pacific Rim, Crimson Peak and Kiwi director Sir Peter Jackson's The Lovely Bones.

She also designed the costumes for the Royal New Zealand Ballet’s production of Hansel and Gretel.

Australian actress Rose Byrne wearing Dior. Photo: Getty Images
Australian actress Rose Byrne wearing Dior. Photo: Getty Images

Oscar fashion: Metallics, structure and classic glamour

Metallics and jewel tones adorned the Oscars red carpet as stars arrived at the 98th Academy Awards, delivering classic glamour on Hollywood’s biggest night.

Among the most closely watched arrivals were the best actress nominees.

Rose Byrne wore a black Dior strapless gown with a flared hem and floral embellishments, topped off with an asymmetrical necklace. Emma Stone stunned in a form-fitting liquid silver Louis Vuitton dress and bouncy bob.

Emma Stone wearing Louis Vuitton opted for sleek Hollywood glamour. Photo: Getty Images
Emma Stone wearing Louis Vuitton opted for sleek Hollywood glamour. Photo: Getty Images

Jessie Buckley opted for a pop of colour in an off-the-shoulder red and pink gown by Matthieu Blazy's Chanel.

Stone’s look continued the sleek, minimal direction she has embraced throughout awards season, while Buckley leaned into a classic look that has been present among recent appearances.

Jessie Buckley, wearing Chanel, opted for a pop of colour. Photo: Getty Images
Jessie Buckley, wearing Chanel, opted for a pop of colour. Photo: Getty Images
Celebrity stylist Luca Kingston said this awards season had pointed to sculptural dressing, old Hollywood references and a focus on silhouette over heavy embellishment.

Stone's fashion has been "fairly body conscious and kind of slinky and really minimalistic and beautiful," and Buckley's has been "simple and a little sculptural and very cool. Like she's not trying, but it fits her personality so well," Kingston noted.

Best supporting actress nominee Elle Fanning wore a Givenchy corset-style top, a diamond leaf choker necklace, and hair slicked back in a bun, and competitor Teyana Taylor wore black and white Chanel, bringing the fun with a fringed skirt.

Dame Anna Wintour wearing Dior and Anne Hathaway in a Valentino gown. Photo: Getty Images
Dame Anna Wintour wearing Dior and Anne Hathaway in a Valentino gown. Photo: Getty Images
This year’s carpet suggested a mood of polish and theatricality, with stars leaning into structured gowns and tailoring.

Men, too, moved beyond the classic tuxedo and got creative with flashy accessories.

"I think that men have really been, for the most part, enjoying making fashion their own and breaking the rules. I think that's been the biggest trend (this award season)," Kingston added.

"Like with Timothee Chalamet, it seems really important to him that he choose things that feel uniquely him rather than 'What am I supposed to wear on a carpet.'"

Timothée Chalamet chose an all-white look designed by Sarah Burton for Givenchy. Photo: Getty...
Timothée Chalamet chose an all-white look designed by Sarah Burton for Givenchy. Photo: Getty Images
Chalamet wore all-white, complete with black sunglasses.

Damson Idris wore a suit with fur lapels and a diamond brooch he designed himself. Pedro Pascal and Adrien Brody wore eye-catching pins.

Stylists and fashion houses treat the Oscars as the high point of awards season, with months of fittings and planning often building toward a single red carpet appearance.

For nominees in particular, the carpet can act as both a fashion moment and the final visual beat in a long campaign.

- Allied Media, RNZ and Reuters