Central Otago growers produce fine wines despite weather

Central Otago winegrowers held their new release pinot noir tasting recently with six wine writers gathering in Cromwell to taste more than 80 pinot noirs that have just been, or will soon be, released.

They were mainly fresh and young (sometimes too young) from the 2013 vintage, but also some 2012s that have been held back to great effect, and a handful of premium 2011s that are just coming into their own.

As always, when you taste so many wines in a morning, you can only get a snapshot of the vintage. There is no time to linger over any, check if they develop in the glass over 20 minutes or try them with food, as I would normally.

Despite the youth of the 2013s - some won't be released until early next year - I was struck by the structure and lovely, ripe, supple tannins in most.

It was a tricky year with a November frost affecting some areas, but a hot January and February helped many vineyards catch up.

Estimates suggest the regional production was down around 20% because of the frost, but there was no disease pressure.

Despite the frosts, obviously many fine wines were produced, pretty well all of which benefit from a few more months or years in the bottle.

The previous vintage, 2012, produced some rich, ripe wines, and those held back for release are definitely benefiting from the extra time in bottle, something that Central Otago pinots need.

The 2011 vintage was written off by many as the 10 and 12 on each side were so ripe and upfront, but the five 2011s in this tasting were coming into their own. T

he sole 2010 in the tasting, the floral, concentrated Wooing Tree Sandstorm Reserve ($120) was a real highlight to finish on.

Among the 80-odd pinots these 2013s stood out as drinking well now: the lively Peregrine Saddleback 2013, good value at $27; the attractive, spicy Gibbston Valley 2013 ($45); Rockburn's youthful, floral 2013 ($50); Maori Point's lush Reserve 2013 ($45); Earth's End fruit-filled 2013, good value at $29; the generous, velvety Roaring Meg 2013, ($30); the charming, spicy Judge Rock Venus 2013, good value at $25; the dark-fruited Maude 2013, ($36); the elegant, charming Aurum Madeleine 2013, ($85); Pisa Range's big, dark-fruited Black Poplar 2013 ($56); Mondillo's generous, harmonious 2013 ($45); Waipara Hills' juicy, oaky Bendigo 2013 ($30); Valli's firm, chocolately Bendigo 2013 ($65) that needs at least another year to show its potential; the powerful, silky, harmonious Gibbston Valley Reserve 2013 ($120); Akarua's richly fruited, spicy 2013 ($45) that also cries out for another few months before broaching.

From the 2012 vintage I noted the dark-fruited, savoury Mount Edward 2012 ($45); Judge Rock's lively 2012 ($40); Coal Pit's bright Tiwha 2012 ($42); three fine Rippon 2012 pinots, the well-balanced Mature Vines ($54.50), the firmly structured Tinker's Field ($95) and the charming Emma's Block ($82); the fragrant Chard Farm Mata-Au 2012 ($46); the mellowed Folding Hill 2012 ($45); the deliciously harmonious Quartz Reef Bendigo 2012 ($80); the firm, minerally Terra Sancta Beach Block 2012 ($49); the supple, juicy Doctor's Flat 2012 ($46); Mt Difficulty's rich, spicy Long Gully 2012 ($100).

A handful of late-released 2011s shone: the soft, fragrant Misha's Vineyard Verismo 2011 ($63); the firm but mellowed Prophet's Rock 2011 ($50); the spicy, fresh Surveyor Thomson 2011 ($45); and Wooing Tree's bright, intense 2011 ($48).

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