Cookbooks

The trend for using grains is growing fast, judging by the number of recent cookbooks on grains, often referred to as ancient grains.

Most of us are familiar with a handful - rice, wheat used in bread and baking, oats, and corn - but not only are there variations on these such as bulgur, freekeh, farro, couscous and polenta, there are also modern grains such as triticale (a cross between wheat and rye bred about 130 years ago), and, of course, exotic grains and pseudograins, especially fashionable ones such as quinoa, chia, amaranth from the Americas, and ones that support millions of people in Africa such as millet, sorghum and teff.

One of the best of several recent books I've come across is Amazing grains: from classic to contemporary, wholesome recipes for everyday, by Ghillie James (Kyle Books).

There's an exhaustive introduction which includes history and health benefits, types of grains and how to cook them, in-depth essays on each grain and its benefits, and 120 recipes from around the world to demonstrate ancient and modern ways of using them suitable for today's busy life.

Grains are versatile, keep well and have the capacity to help transform a nearly empty fridge into a tasty feast packed full of nutrients, James says.

Her go-to, quick fix everyday salad is to cook some grains such as bulgur wheat, whole grain couscous, quinoa, buckwheat, spelt or rice, add vegetables and/or fruits, throw in some crumbled feta, tinned tuna, cold crispy bacon, white beans or chickpeas, sprinkle over nuts and seeds, then dress with extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice and seasoning, a healthier alternative to pasta salads.

The recipes vary from familiar things such as kedgeree and various risottos to more exotic ones such as Cypriot pourgouri (a type of bulgur wheat) with spinach and roast tomatoes, roast duck legs with Asian spiced red rice and plum sauce, Scottish salt and pepper oatcakes and Asian lontong (rice cakes).

It's attractively illustrated and has a good index.

I think it will replace other books on grains in my kitchen.

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