Many of you will have experienced this scenario: you visit a winery on holiday and among the array of usual suspects available to taste and buy, you find a wine that you have never seen or tasted before; possibly one you have never even heard of.
You taste the range with the owner or winemaker, but it's clear they are hankering for you to try the wine that makes them stand out: they have an absolute passion for a little-known variety and that enthusiasm rubs off.
You have made a discovery, and one that adds to the range of grape varieties that you enjoy.
Pinot blanc
An ancient white-berried mutation of pinot noir, pinot blanc is relatively common in parts of Italy, Germany, Austria, Alsace (France) and much of Central Europe, but rarely seen here.
The Wine Grapes book describes wine made from it as ‘‘a lip-smacking halfway house between refreshment and opulence'' and this characterises well-made examples of this grape.
There are perhaps only a dozen or so examples in New Zealand.
Verdelho
Esk Valley chief winemaker Gordon Russell and his team have been flag bearers for this little-known Portuguese variety since their first release in 2002.
The variety is at home on the island of Madeira, and is also grown in Australia, where its high natural acidity is a boon in warmer climates.
In New Zealand there is barely 7ha of producing vines so you will have to hunt this out.
St Laurent
If there was a St Laurent Appreciation and Preservation Society, then Paul and Angela Jacobsen, of Judge Rock in Alexandra, would be fully paid-up members.
They imported this Austrian vine (also grown widely in the Czech Republic, Slovakia and Germany) in 2001 and it is now also grown in Marlborough and Gisborne.
Reminiscent of a powerful version of pinot noir, debate has raged as to whether it is actually related. The most recent DNA research suggests that this is the case.
Price: $39
Rating: Excellent
Very attractive nose offering spices, nuts, peach, sawdust and what I can only describe as vinosity. Marvellously textural on the palate with spices, cashew and peach again: this dances with a sweet-sour Yin and Yang thing, which is very appealing.
Some chalky grip, a welcoming freshness and a long, dry finish. This builds with aeration. Delicious.
Price: $20
Rating: Very good to excellent
Aromatic nose with honeysuckle, licorice and white flowers. This is mouth-filling and richly textural, bringing notes of apricot and spice into play, becoming more tropical fruited with time, all the while with a zingy freshness providing a counterpoint.
A long, crisp, dry finish makes this very food friendly.
Price: $35
Rating: Excellent
This leads off with spices, florals and dark fruits; a second wave of dried herbs, chocolate and lead pencil adds extra interest. Dark chocolate and cranberry on the palate, giving an appealing, sweet-sour interplay with a crunchy freshness.
Plums and dried herbs come up as this fleshes out and softens. A lot to enjoy.
