Queen Charlotte Drive between Picton and Havelock is an absolute stunner of a drive as it skirts along Queen Charlotte Sound’s Grove Arm, then heads over to the shores of Pelorus Sound. The views from the top of the hills are glorious and they give just a hint of the joys that await in the water below.
The two swimming spots here are under 2km apart by road and between them they provide two very different experiences of swimming in the sounds. It’s up to you to pick your own adventure, or you can double up and do both!
Both bays face north, and both are protected from the prevailing nor’west wind by headlands and from the southerlies by the hills that back on to them. This means swimming conditions are spot on more often than not.
Access to Ngākuta Bay is easy as there’s parking right beside the beach. There’s also a boat ramp and a jetty here, which make it a busy wee place. That said, there’s plenty of swimming to be had, all of which is protected by 5-knot speed restrictions within the bay.
If you’re keen for a paddle and a laze, there’s a sandy beach between the boat ramp and the jetty, but for a proper swim I suggest heading over to the other side of the jetty where the water is less busy. Have a look out towards the coast opposite the end of the jetty and there’s a gorgeous wee golden beach that’s perfect for a spot of mid-swim sunning.
Before heading ashore, though, scope the surrounding area for seals that have the same idea. We didn’t see any there, but we were lucky enough to spot a little fella having a rest at the end of the jetty.
Where Ngākuta Bay is easily accessible, Governors Bay is slightly trickier, as there isn’t much parking at the top of the track (although there’s plenty of boat parking out in the water!). If you’re lucky enough to score a carpark, the walk down the hill is a 600m zigzag through native bush.
Surprisingly, on the reserve next to the beach there are several wooden benches and tables, so make a day of it and take a picnic. The beach itself is quite narrow, but the sand is gorgeously golden and the water is super clear and a head-hurting shade of bluey green.
The real beauty of Governors Bay is that apart from boats you can’t see any evidence of human habitation from the beach, so it feels like you’re miles from anywhere, when really you’re just a short (but steep) walk back to reality!
At a glance
Getting there: From Picton, head out of town on Queen Charlotte Dr. After 9km, you’ll reach the small carpark at the top of the Governors Bay track. Ngākuta Bay is 1.5km further down the hill. You could also cycle there on Te Ara Tuhono Link Pathway, which has seen old bridle paths repurposed to link Picton and Havelock.
Parking: Yes, a small carpark at the top of the track for Governors Bay, and a large one by the boat ramp at Ngākuta Bay.
Toilets: Yes, in both locations.
Changing rooms: No.
Kid friendly: Yes.
Dog friendly: Ngakuta Bay, yes; Governors Bay, no.
Notes: There’s a dedicated water-ski land out the front of the boat ramp at Ngākuta Bay marked by black and orange sticks onshore.
Long swim options: Sticking close to the shores, you can explore the coast to your heart’s content. There’s quite a bit of boat traffic at Ngākuta Bay, but the inner bay is inside a set of 5-knot markers restricting their speed. A tow float is a good idea here. Governors Bay is less busy, but there are still quite a few boats around.
The book
Images and text from Jump In: An insider's guide to New Zealand's best beaches, lakes, rivers, pools and hot springs by Nicola McCloy, published by Harper Collins NZ, RRP: $49.99.
