A taste of Greece in Crete

Crete’s Chania harbour on a sunny summer day. PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

This excerpt from Lonely Planet’s 100 Weekends in Europe demonstrates Crete’s combination of cultural and natural spectacles make it a perfect destination for a quick getaway.

The largest of the Hellenic islands, Crete is a condensed version of Greece, and a weekend here offers a tantalising taster of its charms. Underwater caves, shipwrecks and diverse marine life will delight divers, while inland, hikers can enjoy scenic walks through the island’s many gorges.

The archaeological site of Knossos, Heraklion, Crete.

Beach lovers head for the south coast’s Preveli (with a freshwater strand as well as the sea), the palm-backed Vai at Crete’s northeast tip or, in the southeast, the delightful Elafonisi, with pink-tinged sand and turquoise waters. History buffs won’t be disappointed, either. The place where the legendary King Minos is said to have kept his minotaur, the Palace of Knossos was the former capital of the Minoans, whose legacy is preserved in the archaeological museum in the capital, Iraklio (Heraklion). The evocative Old Town of Hania (Chania), with its winding streets and Greek, Ottoman and Venetian architecture, leads to a waterfront promenade lined with pastel houses. Between the two, Rethymno is equally attractive, as is the fortified island of Spinalonga. And in the interior, venture into the tavernas and kafeneio (cafes) of remote villages to enjoy Cretan cooking and warm hospitality.

Check out Cretan farmhouse living

For a hands-on immersion into the traditions of rural Crete, take a trip to one of the island’s working farms, many of which have opened up their doors to visitors. You can book in for a few hours or a day (or even overnight — many also offer accommodation); typical activities might include watching olive oil production, learning how to make local breads and cheeses, or taking a cooking class, as well as pitching in with herb picking and feeding the animals. Recommended Cretan farms include Agreco (agreco.gr), the ecotourism village Enagron (enagron.gr), and the Dalabelos Estate (dalabelos.gr).

Follow a wine route

Wine has been produced in Crete over four millennia, and this long tradition of winemaking is best explored by taking a tour of the island’s wineries, the majority of which are located around Iraklio (winesofcrete.gr). If you have a car (and a designated driver), it’s easy to plot a route around the wineries, which offer tastings, tours and a wealth of information on the local grape varieties. Alternatively, take an organised wine tour with Made in Crete (madeincrete.com), including transport, tastings and lunch.

Vineyards in central Iraklio Province, Crete.

Paddle a sea kayak along the Cretan coast

What could be more exciting than discovering the Cretan coastline from a kayak? Numerous operators rent kayaks with which you can explore the coast independently and organise guided excursions lasting a few hours or a full day; two-day excursions to discover the coves and cliffs that dot the southern coast are also available.

A sea stack on Crete’s Preveli beach.

Take a hike through gorgeous gorges

Hiking through the many gorges that slice through the Cretan landscape is a must-do for hikers. Most make a beeline for the famous Samaria, but for less-frequented trails, head to the likes of Imbros Gorge, half as long as Samaria at 8km, and a two- to three-hour walk from end to end along a scenic one-time mule path.

In the east of the island, Zakros Gorge offers a range of lovely walks along a meandering green river (dry in summer); the canyon walls are dotted with Minoan burial sites, earning Zakros its Valley of the Dead nickname.

You can walk independently, but guided hikes are also available.

More time?

Gadvos: Anendyk Seaways (anendyk.gr) offers summer ferries (around two hours from Hora Sfakion) between Crete and this southernmost of the Greek islands, a wild and unspoilt place with lovely beaches and a pine-and cedar-swathed interior.

Glasses of raki.

Lasithi Plateau: Dotted with windmills and overlooked by the peaks of the Dikti Mountains, this fertile plateau in eastern Crete’s Lasithi Province is home to the Dikteon Cave where, according to legend, the earth goddess Rhea is said to have given birth to Zeus, safe from the clutches of his cannibalistic father Cronos. The artfully lit interior is a riot of impressive stalactites.

Cretan raki

While ouzo is very popular in other parts of Greece, in Crete it’s all about raki. Also known as tsikoudia, this fragrant, clear spirit is distilled from strafylla, the pulp that remains after grapes are crushed and pressed to make wine. Similar to French marc and Italian grappa (though unlike Turkish rak, no anise is added here), Cretan raki is a popular aperitif, and you’ll often be offered a glass to round off a meal at the island’s tavernas.

Production begins in October at the island’s distilleries, and Cretan villages celebrate the event with tastings. If it’s chilly, try rakomelo, flavoured with honey and cinnamon and often served warm.

Practicalities

How to get there: Crete has two international airports, in Hania and Iraklio. Low-cost airlines run to both from European cities and the UK.

Where to stay: Inland, especially around Hania and Rethymno, staying on a farm offers an atmospheric alternative to the beachside hotels. Many offer farm-to-table meals too.