Merino wool making big waves in US market

Branwyn chief executive Deanne Buck (left) with Geordie Hill shepherdess Annie McCaughan as Ms...
Branwyn chief executive Deanne Buck (left) with Geordie Hill shepherdess Annie McCaughan as Ms Buck visits merino farmers in the Mackenzie Basin to see where the US company sources fine wool for its bras and underwear. PHOTOS: JASON LARRAMAN
Merino bra and underwear sales are on the rise as fast-growing United States company Branwyn becomes familiar with the fine wool’s home in the Mackenzie Basin.

Branwyn was the 109th fastest growing company in the US and had the seventh fastest growing consumer product two years ago, backing this up with a 246 ranking on the "Inc. 5000" list in August.

The Oregon start-up was founded by a young couple in 2014 and rebranded when sold to new owners Jeff and Lauren Shafer.

An initial focus on outdoor women familiar with merino activewear has widened to buyers seeking garments made of natural fibres.

The inner-wear is made from 17.5 micron merino wool, accredited under The New Zealand Merino Company’s (NZM) ZQ programme, by Italian seamless knitting machines.

Chief executive Deanne Buck is on her first visit to New Zealand to meet high country farmers, listen to their stories and "connect the dots" in the early stage of its production.

Earlier this week she went to Bog Roy and Benmore stations and dined with about 25 farmer suppliers at a Twizel function hosted by NZM.

Ms Buck said seeing the pride farmers took in producing ZQ merino wool had affirmed why it was prized by Branwyn.

"Part of my goal was to meet our growers — the people who are taking care of the sheep and supplying the wool.

"It’s just been an incredible trip so far and the care everybody’s taking and their love for the land and the animals and the people it’s really quite overwhelming.

"They are all [producing] the highest quality, most ethical merino in the world and we then get to put this into a product which our customers get to use."

She said finer micron wool was needed for their comfort, lightweight and close-to-skin performance as a lot of women used them for travel, working out and outdoor activities.

Farmers had passed on to her their knowledge of the fleece’s inner attributes as well as the science and breeding that went into producing quality fibre.

"There’s a real focus at least in the US about natural fibres and the move away from synthetics.

"Cotton and linen are always held up as these amazing fibres, and they are, but they are not active fibres.

"Merino wool is an active fibre in that it comes from an animal and it has the attributes we look for ... in our products."

She said there was greater understanding of merino’s values, with more education needed to dispel the hangover myth that wool was itchy.

Branwyn had a 14-day return policy, but their products were rarely returned and buyers often wore them daily after initially buying them for a hike, she said.

Merino’s naturally breathable, antimicrobial and sweat-wicking qualities tied in well with underwear and other products such as leggings.

Branwyn sells directly online, mainly in the US, to more than 50% repeat customers and also to Canada, Australasia and Europe.

Ms Buck said business growth was up 40% last year with expansion funded solely from sales revenue.

"So we have been growing pretty rapidly and we have just received a lot of recognition for innovation.

"In Athletec News, which is a publication in the US, we were in the 25 brands to watch for this year."

Sales were shaping up to increase again, but it was difficult to predict as there was "a lot going on" in the US.

Active wear remains the focus and a new yoga top is being launched, while Branwyn is seeing its underwear being used for swimming by women.

Ms Buck said ZQ wool was sourced from NZM because not all wool was created equal and Branwyn wanted a consistent fibre which could perform and to know that farmers valued their animals, land and people.

"It’s not just sustainable, but it’s regenerative and giving back to our planet.

"For us that’s peace of mind and helps us sleep at night.

"As a brand you are only as good as your partners."

Branwyn gives 1% of sales to organisations connecting women and girls to the outdoors.

NZM said international brands and businesses such as Branwyn were putting serious investment into connecting with the people and growers that sourced wool for their products.

tim.cronshaw@odt.co.nz