Riesling is one of those fascinating grape varieties that can be so vividly indicative of its place and producer yet also engender uncertainty and frustration among a raft of wine lovers: the reason, the level of sweetness (or not). Riesling can be bone dry with a rapier-like shaft of acidity coursing through it, lusciously honeyed and sweet, and everything in between, which is not always easy to divine. I love it in all its beguiling guises but can see the hurdle. I’ve said this before and it is imperfect science, but the lower the alcohol, generally the greater the sweetness, which may be your only guide if there is no-one to offer advice. Because it would be a shame to overlook this amazing variety. 2024 Mondillo Central Otago Riesling Price RRP $35 Rating Excellent Bright and aromatic, lime zest, apple, almost a dash of cracked pepper. Nice weight in the mouth, again playing the lime and apple cards, a fruit pastille aspect alluding to fruit sweetness yet this is dry. Juicy, zesty and very engaging flowing to a long, spicy finish with an appealing touch of chewy grip, those fruit pith phenolics adding to the texture. Generosity of flavour for now or the cellar. www.mondillo.com 2025 Riverby Estate S.V Marlborough (Dry) Riesling Price RRP $25 Rating Very Good to Excellent Sweetly perfumed, musk and apple skin, jasmine/white flowers florality, a honeyed note, a winning combo to the fragrance. The palate by contrast is dry and somewhat subtle, flavour nuances there that seem like they are waiting for their moment to shine. Citrus notes of grapefruit and lemon arrive, while this does show its youthful side. More to come, I suspect, with time in bottle. www.riverbyestate.com 2015 Carrick Organic Bannockburn Riesling Price RRP $32 Rating Very Good to Excellent Perfumed nose, touches of honey and lavender, red apple, a hint of nectarine. The palate is juicy and crunchy, richness that hints at fruit sweetness yet this is just off-dry, while a touch of phenolics adds grip. Apple on the close with a wisp of lanolin. Wines can go through “open” and “closed” phases and I’m left feeling that this one has secrets that it is yet to reveal. Give it time to open out. www.carrick.co.nz 2025 Two Paddocks Schatzi Organic Alexandra Riesling Price CD $42 (NB Cellar Door/mailing list only/wider distribution later this year) Rating Excellent Fragrant, perfumed, white flowers, flecks of rosemary, apple, lightly honeyed, very engaging. The palate is lip- smacking crisp and juicy, fruit sweet yet with contrasting acidity that is never strident, a wisp of chewiness adding to the texture. Super integration and balance, already just so drinkable yet quite youthful with evident gas in the tank for the future. www.twopaddocks.com 2025 Riverby Estate S.V Marlborough Eliza Riesling Price RRP $28 Rating Excellent to Outstanding Fragrance soars from the glass, musk, lychee, honey, preserved lemon, spice, draws you back for more. The palate takes the citrus notes to orange and mandarin alongside marmalade, apple and honey, fresh acidity contrasting the sweet fruit. We could talk about the wine’s complexity but this is pure and simple so darned moreish that you want another glass. www.riverbyestate.com 2023 Two Paddocks Schatzi Organic Alexandra Riesling Price CD $42 (NB Cellar Door/mailing list only) Rating Excellent to Outstanding There’s a fruit pith/fruit zest-like note on the nose, a sense of development, terpene and honey, little nuances popping up with each sniff, apple and citrus a backdrop. A quiet sumptuousness in the mouth, yet cooling minerality like water over riverstones, apple and sweet fruit frame it all. Simply delicious, lovely integration, full of flavour yet not overstated. Super now yet with potential. www.twopaddocks.com
