The way the modelling industry perceives plus-sized models has changed, writes Amy Parsons-King.
It used to be that only waif-like models who look as though they were starved of protein with bones protruding and a visible thigh-gap could walk the runway, could feature in advertising campaigns or on the pages of glossy fashion magazines.
However, a recent rise in positive body image advocates has changed the way beauty is perceived. The fact that American plus-size model Ashley Graham, who is a size 16, graced the cover of Sports Illustrated swimsuit issue earlier this year is a testament to this change.
New Zealand appears to be relatively progressive when it comes to embracing women of all body-types - it's home to popular plus-size fashion bloggers such as Meagan Kerr and Regina Borrell.
Borrell is so passionate about women embracing their curves she's hosting New Zealand's first exclusive plus-size fashion weekend in Auckland next year.
The event will feature clothing and lingerie from designers such as Rose & Thorne, City Chic, The 3 Bears, Stella Royal by Augustine, Beggs and Taking Shape, with more to be announced in coming months.
Rather than hiring professional models, Borrell made a model casting call via social media, asking everyday New Zealand women to apply to model in the shows. One of the successful applicants was Dunedin woman Cassandra Campbell.
Aged 11, Campbell joined Weight Watchers for the first time, encouraged by her mother, who struggled with her own weight throughout her life, and her family doctor.
Despite being tall and slim as a child, Campbell's body drastically changed as she grew older, something she attributes to reaching puberty and her mother getting a job, enabling her to afford ''treat'' food.
School was difficult for Campbell. She was often teased for her curvaceous figure, and to help cope with the negativity she became ''the class clown''.
''It was horrible trying to fit in. I struggled with friendships because of my own self-doubt and I guess I tried to over-compensate with humour ... so people would look at me for a different reason, other than my weight.''
Despite having struggled with body image throughout her life, Cassandra (30) is finally beginning to love and accept her figure for what it is.
''My self-esteem has only got better since losing some weight. I made a Facebook page around my effort, which is based on loving my body. I've tried for so long to lose weight and decided I'm going to love the body I'm in, while I work towards what I want. I think that's the key because it wasn't until I started accepting myself that I had any success,'' she said.
Since she made the decision to cherish her fuller figure she's lost 15kg, begun burlesque dancing, modelled in glamour shoots and considered being a plus-size model, even reaching out to local agency Aart Model Management director Darryl McNamara, who says he is interested in getting her on his books as demand for fuller-figured model increases.
''We have some demand for plus-size models, which comes from designers who are making clothing for the plus-size woman.
''We have models who have done well locally and even nationally. For example Teri Higgins, who has been the catalogue model for Wellington-based Lorraine Hall for the past two seasons. This year we have also had requests from students featuring in the Design School Collections Show,'' he said.
Higgins, who is currently the only plus-size model on Aart Model Management books, says people are surprised when she explains she's a plus-size model.
''When people say to me 'pfft, you're not plus-sized!' I explain that while commercial plus-size is size 16 and up, industry plus size is size 12/14.''
Despite being a plus-size model by industry standards, Higgins has had no trouble finding work, having modelled for designers such as Hall NZ, Tanya Carlson, Charmaine Reveley, Mild Red, Trelise Cooper, Dunedin Fashion School graduates, Jane Daniels, Wall Street Mall, White by Design, various jewellery brands, hairdressers and in various shows, including Zonta and iD Dunedin Fashion Week.
A highlight was modelling a custom-made Carlson wedding dress in the finale of an iD Railway Show, where she received a standing ovation.
However, there has also been some negative feedback.
''There was a bit of negative press when I was the first plus-size model to walk in iD Fashion Week a few years ago, but I think it was just new and different.
''What I'm really loving about this currently social mediated world is that anything goes. There is a place for the waif thin, the athletic, the curvaceous and the extremely curvaceous.
''There appears to be no real 'right or wrong' now ... and while there will always be critics, there are now safe spaces for people to be who they want to be. Models like Ashley Graham, Tara Lynn and Robyn Lawley are game-changers for the plus modelling industry. These gals are designers, music video stars, America's Next Top Model judges, curve advocates, social media stars and just utter babes,'' she said.
