Giving nails a helping hand

A nail technician's work station at Xchange Design Studio in Dunedin. Photo by Linda Robertson.
A nail technician's work station at Xchange Design Studio in Dunedin. Photo by Linda Robertson.
Manicures, whether done in a salon or in front of the tele at home, are an easy way to give neglected winter hands a lift.

Laura Hewson looks at how to give your nails a helping hand.

The professional polish
For many, a manicure isn't a luxury, it's an investment in feeling good about their hands.

But before you invest, give some thought to where you go, as not all manicurists are qualified nail technicians.

Louise Knox-Grant, owner of Xchange Design Studio in Dunedin, says a qualified technician should always display their certificate on the wall or near their workstation.

But does it really make a difference? "Someone qualified will have learnt about the anatomy of the nail and hand, and about hygiene.

They know the importance of sterilising products."

Artificial intelligence
If you have healthy, strong nails, a manicure can be enough to make your nails look great. But if your nails are short, weak or damaged you may have to fake it with acrylic or gel nail enhancements.

Acrylic nails have been the first choice for a long time but, according to Mrs Knox-Grant, gel is gaining in popularity due to improvements in the technology.

"It really comes down to personal preference these days."

With enhancements, the technician first glues a tip on to the top of the nail and cuts it to the desired length.

The tips can be white for someone wanting a French polish, natural for those who may want a colour after or even coloured for those wanting to make a statement.

The technician then paints on the acrylic.

"Acrylics are good for bitten nails as they are thicker than natural nails and don't tend to get bitten," Mrs Knox-Grant says. "There is also incentive not to bite them as they look so good."

A nail technician should look after the natural nail as much as possible, she says.

If the nails are too damaged or weak, then gel is a better option than acrylic.

"It's like building a house on weak foundations," says Mrs Knox-Grant. "The nails need to be okay to start with."

Gel nails are also applied as a liquid then cured under a UV lamp.

If you are unsure whether to go for acrylic or gel enhancements, talk to your nail technician about your lifestyle and what kind of look you are after.

After two to three weeks, backfills are needed at the base of the nails where the enhancements have grown out. After the initial application, backfills should be all you need unless you break one and have to start again.

At Xchange Design studio, you can expect to pay $30 for a manicure, $65 for a full set of nail enhancements and $40-$45 for backfills.

What about the false nails you can buy in shops? "These are made of plastic so are okay for a night out but not for everyday," says Mrs Knox-Grant. The glue adhesive can also damage the nail plate, she warns.

Colouring in
Winter nails should be dark burgundies, browns and reds, right? Not necessarily.

"Magazines always push darker colours in winter but a lot of people go brighter. Yellow and apple green are popular with young people at the moment," says Louise Knox-Grant.

DIY manicure in 10 easy steps
If going to a salon on a regular basis is too much of a commitment, you can always maintain your nails at home. Keep everything you need in a make-up bag then bring it out once a week to keep nails looking sharp.

Checklist: Nail polish remover, nail file (not metal), nail buffer, cuticle oil, nail hardener, nail polish, top coat, hand cream.

Step 1. Remove any existing nail polish with a non-acetone nail polish remover (especially if you have synthetic nails, as acetone can melt them). Cotton pads do the best job as they are lint free and don't leave behind any cotton wool.

Step 2. File nails rather than cutting them with scissors or clippers. Always file in one direction from the outsides into the middle - not a see-saw motion - and avoid metal files as they are too coarse for the nail. The finer the grit the better.

The shape is a personal choice. "The majority of people have round cuticles so I round the nail to match," says Mrs Knox-Grant.

The 'squoval' - a square tip with round sides - is also popular.

Step 3. Soak your nails in a hand soak if you have it or in liquid soap. Skip this step if you have nail enhancements.

Step 4. Gently push cuticles back and remove any of the non-living tissue behind them. Don't attempt to cut cuticles as you can cut yourself, which looks untidy and can lead to infection.

Step 5. Gently buff the surface of the nail to take out any ridges on the nail plate. Don't buff too hard as it can leave marks, and buff only once a week.

Step 6. Use a cuticle oil every evening to soften the cuticles and hydrate the nails. Just apply a drop at the base of the nail and rub over the surface. Try O.P.I Avoplex, which contains avocado oil, or The Body Shop's Almond Oil Nail and Cuticle Treatment.

Step 7. Apply a base coat or nail hardener, such as O.P.I Nail Envy, to help polish last longer and protect the nail plate from the varnish. If you want to grow your nails long, you will need to use a hardener to keep nails strong.

Step 8. Apply the colour leaving a slight gap around the cuticle to make nails look longer and to stop colour bleeding into the cuticle. Apply 3 strokes - 1 in the middle then one on either side. Clean any mistakes with a cotton bud and remover.

If you are the impatient type, look for a fast-drying varnish. When nails sound harder, apply a second coat of varnish to get the true colour. (Store varnish in a cool dark place.

Nail polish lasts about one year then it starts getting tacky, so don't save it for a special occasion. If you have a colour you can't live without, you can add nail lacquer thinner to extend its life.

Step 9. Apply a clear top coat, which adds shine and keeps your manicure looking good for longer.

Step 10. Once nails are completely dry apply a nourishing hand cream, such as Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Hand Cream or the Hemp Hand Protector from the Bodyshop. Lush has a range of delicious options including Helping Hands (especially good for gardeners) and Handy Gurugu (with shea butter).

Hand cream is especially important in winter when skin dries out easily and we don't tend to drink enough water.

Did you know?
Lee Redmond, of Utah, holds the record for the female with the longest finger nails.

According to the Guinness Book of Records, her longest nail was 90cm long before she had an accident this year and they were broken. (Read the story)

 

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