Of all make-up products, the one that confuses and perplexes women most is foundation.
But we're learning fast that there's absolutely no need to look as if we've either face-planted a flour bag or a mud puddle, or for that matter, tried to emulate those tangerine-toned footballers' wives.
It's not that foundation hasn't been around for a while.
As so often is the case, it all began with the ancient Greeks and the Romans.
Well, they were among the first to use cosmetic foundations, albeit often with dire consequences, given that their compounds sometimes included white lead.
But in those times the aim was to create a fairer complexion rather than enhance the natural skin tone.
It happened again in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance period, when pale skin was seen as a symbol of privilege.
There was a period in 17th-century England when women opted for darker make-up to cover the pallor caused by hiding inside to avoid the plague, but pale skin came back into vogue by the late 18th century.
All this seesawing has now slowed, thanks to a gentleman called Max Factor, who last century created his famous pancake make-up for the American film industry.
Film-makers were at the time pioneering Technicolor and finding the make-up used for black-and-white films was no longer satisfactory.
It was in the glamour years of the 1920s and the 1930s when Max Factor talked of the "magic of make-up" - its ability to create an illusion, making it "impossible for anyone to detect where make-up begins or ends".
Formulated in numerous colours to match the skin tones of actors and actresses, his water-activated product was patented in 1937.
Because of its various qualities, the stars began buying it and wearing it off the set in public.
They loved its transparency as well as its ability to cover uneven skin tones and blemishes.
Soon women throughout the United States were demanding it, as were their counterparts throughout the world.
Interestingly, Shiseido's Moisture Mist range, especially formulated for New Zealand women, includes a Beauty Cake make-up which is also water-activated.
On the market for the past 30 years, it is the top seller among the myriad types and brands of foundations available at Arthur Barnett's Dunedin store, cosmetic department manager Lorna McCormack says.
It's a similar story along George St at Farmers, where Beauty Cake is also the best-selling foundation.
"And because it is only available in New Zealand, we find women coming in to take it back across the Tasman," says Angela Clarke, the cosmetic sales manager for the Dunedin Farmers store.
That first pancake foundation ended the reliance on powder formulations, which in the early to mid-20th century tended to dry the skin and give the face a pale, papery, mask-like quality.
It was also the forerunner to the other foundation types - foundation sticks, liquids and creams, along with refined cake and loose powders, mainly used for finishing.
So, how does one find the perfect foundation?The choice of foundation has nothing to do with age or lifestyle.
It's rather all about skin type and tone.
"Once a customer's skin type is diagnosed, it's very easy to find which type of foundation she will be the happiest with," says Ms McCormack.
Different skin types require different coverage and the various textures of foundations will cover in different ways.
A personal preference for a matte or dewy finish should also be factored in.
Generally speaking, there are three major types of foundation weights.
The weight refers to the foundation's specific opacity, this directly affecting coverage results.
• Sheer: Sheer coverage is lightweight and provides minimal coverage of the skin.
This type of coverage will be the softest and least noticeable.
• Medium: This is the standard coverage formula.
It provides light to medium coverage and can be used sparingly for less coverage or built upon with other products, such as powder, for a more opaque, heavy coverage.
• Heavy: This will cover almost any imperfection in the skin.
Foundations are constantly evolving, the latest being the mineral formulation which, because it is made up of natural ingredients that have been sterilised and pulverised into a very fine powder, does not clog pores and is particularly appealing to women with sensitive skins.
"It's ideal for women who suffer from roseacea, dryness, acne or other skin ailments. It's skin-friendly, which will not exacerbate skin problems," Ms McCormack says.
"It 's also good for women who complain of an oily skin.
"The usual chemical-based products can cause issues for women with oily complexions while mineral foundations do not use oils in their manufacture," she says.
"High-quality powder mineral foundations do not feel like a mask when applied with a brush to the face. They are well-suited to disguising wrinkles, crow's-feet and fine lines because they reflect sunlight and create a really healthy look."
Mineral foundation is being produced by most most major companies - including L'Oreal, Revlon, Mac, Elizabeth Arden and Maybelline. - Jude Hathaway
