Just how much difference was demonstrated in a recent tasting in Wellington of six 2011 rieslings from Framingham. They were picked over about eight weeks and most were in the F-Series which aim to push the boundaries and are made in small quantities when conditions are suitable.
This series of rieslings is inspired by the German system of quality levels of wine based on increasing degrees of ripeness and sugar levels. Winemaker Andrew Hedley believes a series like this has not been done before in New Zealand and is unlikely to be done again, unless similar weather conditions occur.
In 2011 the weather provided ripe fruit, but intermittent rain during the harvest period and subsequent drying winds contributed to the formation of noble (as opposed to the damaging grey) rot which allowed three botrytis wines of different concentrations to be made.
Framingham's 30-year-old riesling vineyard in Marlborough is on a stony former riverbed.
Heat reflected from the stones on the ripening grapes contributes to the delicacy of the wines, according to viticulturist Anton Groffen.
I was struck by the delicacy of these wines - delicacy does not mean lack of concentration or weight, but they were relatively low in alcohol at 8.5% or less.
However, the fruit weight, increasing levels of sweetness and lively balanced acidity made them harmonious and delicious.
The driest of the wines was the delicate, steely, F-Series Riesling Kabinett 2011 ($35) with hints of lime and lemon and a lively acidity. Kabinett is a German term for a quality wine made from fully ripened grapes. They were beginning to change from green to yellow, and were harvested on March 20, Hedley said.
A couple of weeks later the grapes for Framingham Select Riesling 2011 ($35), a late-harvest style, were picked, now with golden yellow skins.
The wine retains the delicious, zesty lime and citrus notes and even hints of raspberry, but with a medium sweetness has more intensity and texture.
The increasing effect of botrytis was demonstrated in the next four wines.
The F-Series Riesling Auslese 2011 ($40), harvested on April 12 and May 1, is rich and textural with just a hint of dried apricot and honey from 15%-30% of the grapes affected by botrytis. It's rich and sweet but retains a delicacy balanced by a steely acidity.
In Framingham Noble Riesling 2011 ($35 375ml), picked between April 12 and May 23, about 50%-60% of the grapes were affected by botrytis. It oozes dried apricot and citrus marmalade with hints of toasted hazelnuts and a steely acidity, but retains delicacy. Auslese is a late-harvest wine made from selected grapes.
From the old vine block the F-Series Riesling Beerenauslese 2011 ($50 350ml) was a concentrated, textural, marmaladey beauty, intensely sweet but with a lovely balance of acidity. Beerenauslese refers to the selection of fully botrytised grapes.
The peak of the tasting was the F-Series Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 2011 ($60, 350ml) also harvested in mid to late May from old vines. It is made from heavily botrytised grapes that have shrivelled rather like raisins and is unctuous and wonderfully aromatic with flavours and aromas of dried apricot, peach, pear, ginger, manuka honey and marmalade, a firm structure and aftertaste that lingers for ever; rich, almost over the top but lusciously long-lasting.
Beside the German-inspired rieslings, the Framingham team made some Alsatian-inspired late-harvest pinot gris and gewurztraminer, like the rieslings, delicate because of the low alcohol, but not dilute.
Framingham F-series Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive 2011 ($40 500ml) is rich and honeyed, luscious with hints of peach and quince, textural and long.
"Vendange tardive" means late harvest.
F-Series Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive 2011 ($40 500ml) is fragrant with hints of roses, lychees and citrus, sweet but balanced by a lively acidity and retaining a delicacy.
F-Series Gewurztraminer Selection de Grains Nobles 2011 ($60 375ml), made from botrytised grapes, is luscious and oily, oozing dried apricots and mango, with a hint of nuts, intensely sweet but not cloying. Delicious.
Hedley recommends these sweet wines as aperitifs or for sipping by themselves or with blue cheese.
