Purple reign

Photo: The Observer
Photo: The Observer
These colder nights call for something warm and familiar. Or at least something tasty on toast. Aubergine on toast is a simple but deliciously comforting dinner, writes Nigel Slater.

Remove and discard the stalk from 500g of aubergines (2 medium-sized fruits). Cut them into large cubes, about 2cm. Put them into a colander and sprinkle generously with salt flakes and set aside on a plate, or in the sink, for 30 minutes. During this time they will soften and consequently absorb less oil as they cook.

Set the oven at 200°C. Pat the aubergine pieces with kitchen paper — this will remove most of the salt — then put them in a roasting dish or on a baking sheet and trickle with 80ml of olive oil. Roast for 20 minutes, then turn them over with kitchen tongs and roast for a further 5 to 10 minutes until golden brown and totally soft to the touch.

Roughly chop 3 Tbsp of coriander leaves and 2 Tbsp of dill, and remove the leaves from 10g of basil. Mix all the herbs together and add 2 tsp of red wine vinegar and a good grind of black pepper.

When the aubergine is soft to the touch and lightly browned, toss it with the herbs and vinegar. Trickle with a little more oil if necessary.

Toast 2 thick slices of bread until golden, then trickle with olive oil. Pile the aubergines and any cooking juices on the toast and eat immediately.

Serves 2. Ready in about 1 hour.

• When you turn the aubergines, add a little more oil if they appear to need it.

• This also makes a pleasing salad. Let the herbed and dressed aubergine cool a little, then toss with 2 handfuls of couscous that you have soaked for 15 minutes in enough hot stock to make the grains swell.

• A salad of sliced tomatoes would be my choice of accompaniment. — The Observer