The little one-man winery built by Brady has been sympathetically expanded to include processing areas with more tanks, an extensive barrel cellar and larger tasting room, but it still retains its charm. The philosophy to make top flight pinot noir and riesling has changed little, though.
Forsyth, who started his winemaking career at Chard Farm then helped establish the neighbouring Peregrine, is moving towards organic certification.
The two oldest vineyards, at Pisa and the small, steep riesling vineyard next to the winery, are already certified, and the newest, Muirkirk, a former orchard in Felton Rd is working towards it - at the moment a few pigs are ploughing and fertilising it before vines are planted.
Another couple of pigs, destined to become proscuitto, live in a pen below his family home at Lake Hayes and a small group of exotic hens poke about beneath the trees. He and his wife, Helen, have become accidental farmers, he says with a laugh.
Not one for taking himself seriously (except when it comes to wine) his card identifies him as the "big cheese" instead of the more formal "managing director" or "winemaker" and he has a penchant for wearing colourful 1970s and '80s clothes.
However, he believes a healthy ecosystem is essential for good wine, and worries about the monoculture of vines that is developing in Central Otago.
Besides the savoury, fruit-filled but refined Mount Edward Pinot Noir ($45) and the stylishly intense, single vineyard Morrison Pinot Noir ($65), there's the good-value Earth's End ($29) pinot noir and an impressive array of whites.
I was particularly taken with a fragrant, refreshing but mouthfilling pinot blanc (2008, about $25) with a suggestion of pears and spice. It's a welcome alternative to the often fat and heavy pinot gris.
However, it's the rieslings that excited me with their lovely lift of citrus, hints of lime marmalade, off-dry with sweetness at the front and a steely precision and dry finish.
The Mount Edward Riesling 2007 from Lowburn is about $25, and the remarkable The Drumlin 2006 (about $29) is from the home vineyard on its 30deg slope planted by Brady in 1997. A few vines had to be dug up for the winery extension, Forsyth says, and the roots went down 5-6m.
It's probably among the best rieslings from Central, fragrant and floral, with wonderful lime and kerosene hints and a precise, racy finish. Forsyth says they pick riesling earlier than they used to and find the flavours and acid more balanced.
Mount Edward is in Coal Pit Rd, Gibbston. (03) 442-6113 - phone for an appointment before visiting.
Another Central Otago winery with new developments is Northburn Station. Tom and Jan Pinckney have been growing grapes for 10 years on their high country station near Cromwell.
Jan Pinckney is a chef and had always dreamed of a cellar door and function centre in the vineyard, which finally opened after Christmas last year.
Known as "The Shed" it is built from recycled materials from the farm, modelled on the homestead and woolshed, and beautifully sited beside a small dam overlooking Lake Dunstan.
She serves food and wine from the station - merino lamb, hare, rabbit, duck, whitebait caught by Tom, field mushrooms, honey, and vegetables from the garden. She also sells marinated farm meat, preserves and ready-prepared meals.
Northburn wines are made by Michelle Richardson, and a vertical tasting of the pinot noir from the vineyard showed a legacy of powerful, full-bodied wines with a hint of licorice and spice.
The cellar door is open every day, even when there are functions on.
