Swathed in their blankets of heavily perfumed, creamy white flowers, elder trees are common in Canterbury and North Otago, most having been established by the birds that gorged themselves on the swollen black berries in late summer.
History tells us that the hollow stems were once used for starting fires and that musical pipes and harps were made from the hollow branches.
Superstitions dictated that if you burnt the wood you could see the devil and it was popular belief that an elder tree would only grow where blood was reported to have been shed.
Though elder wood is prized by craftsmen, it was believed to be unlucky to make a cradle from it because the spirit of the tree might harm the child as it slept.
Even farmers were reluctant to use elder switches to drive their cattle for fear of what it might bring.
But despite the doom and gloom associated with the elder tree, planting one outside your back door was apparently a sure way of protecting against evil and black magic and if that wasn't enough, it was also said to keep witches out of the house and protect the family from lightning strikes.
All outlandish notions aside, our focus is on utilising the elderflower in the production of delicious elderflower cordial and harvesting the fruit for jams.
Elderflower cordial is most commonly added to still or sparkling water to make a cool and refreshing drink or used to flavour cocktails or bubbles for a hint of something different.
You can also make sweet wine from the flowers and even sparkling wine, which I haven't tasted yet, but can just imagine would be sensational.
Medicinally, elderflower extract has been proven to help people recover faster from the flu.
It is good in treating hay fever and respiratory problems and a gargle made from an elderflower infusion alleviates tonsillitis and sore throats.
In Europe, the elderflower also has a reputation for treating rheumatism, gout and migraines.
Elderflowers last only a month or so, so you have to get in quickly before they all turn to berries.
The flowers are at their peak when they are in full bloom, with a few buds about to burst.
By late summer the berries are ready for making into jams and jellies and are best harvested when they are purple-black and plump.
Like blackcurrants they are extremely high in pectin and set well in conserves, making them perfect to cook with.
This Christmas, why not enjoy a chilled glass of elderflower soda - a healthy way to celebrate.
Smear gooseberry and elderflower jam over hot buttery toast and take some time out to cook up a batch of elderberry conserve - perfect for Christmas gifts.
We're going for something delicate and tasty for breakfast on Christmas Day - elderflower fritters with honey and lemon served, of course, with bubbles and a splash of elderflower.
Bevan and Monique Smith own the award-winning restaurant and cafe Riverstone Kitchen on SH1 in north Otago, just south of the Waitaki Bridge. www.riverstonekitchen.co.nz
20 clusters of elderflowers, shaken to remove any insects
peel of 2 lemons (We use a potato peeler)
1.75kg standard white sugar
1.2 litres water
4 Tbsp citric acid
Bring sugar and water to the boil.
When the sugar has dissolved remove from the heat and stir in the citric acid.
Place the elderflowers in a separate bowl with the lemon peel.
Pour the hot liquid over the flowers and lemon peel, cover with a tea towel and leave to stand overnight.
Strain the cordial through muslin and store in sterilised bottles. Easy!
1kg green gooseberries, topped and tailed
8 clusters of elderflowers
1kg standard white sugar
500 ml of water
Place gooseberries and water into a heavy-based pot.
Place flowers on top and gently cook on a low to medium heat until gooseberries are soft but still holding their shape.
Remove the flowers and add sugar.
Continue to gently cook until sugar has dissolved and then turn up the heat to a rolling boil for 8 to 9 minutes, continually stirring, until setting point is achieved.
Bottle jam immediately in hot sterilised jars.
250g plain flour
half a cup canola oil
1½ cups lukewarm water
80g sugar
2 egg whites, whisked to a firm peak
12-16 clusters elderflowers
canola oil or any other neutral-flavoured vegetable oil to cook in
icing sugar to dust
lemon wedges
First make the batter by whisking the oil, flour, water and sugar together.
Fold in the whisked egg whites.
In a large frying pan, heat one centimetre of oil over a medium to high heat.
Hold flowers by the stem, and dip into the batter.
Carefully place the flowers into the hot oil face down.
Cook for two minutes on each side in small batches or until lovely and golden.
Drain on absorbent paper and serve immediately.
Serve fritters with a dash of icing sugar and a squeeze of lemon.
Elderberry conserve
1 kg elderberries, removed from bunches
1 kg standard white sugar
300ml water
Heat berries at a medium temperature in a large heavy-based pot with the water until the berries start to break down.
Add the sugar and bring to a fast boil. Stir constantly until the jam starts to thicken.
Bottle jam in hot sterilised conserve jars.
