WINE REVIEW: A fine Chardonnay

When people ask me what my favourite wine is, I can never give a definitive answer, but recently I've thought there's nothing to beat a really fine chardonnay - intriguing, full in the mouth with a hint of stone, citrus or tropical fruit, a background suggestion of toasted hazelnuts and buttery oatmeal, and a long, crisp, dry finish and a lingering aftertaste that evokes crème brûlée.

Unfortunately, such wines are not priced for everyday drinking.

However, there are some very acceptable wines around the $20 mark, which can sometimes be found on special.



Haymaker Gisborne Chardonnay 2008

(about $17)

A simple, easy wine with a zesty hint of ripe tropical and citrus fruit and a pleasant finish.

Three stars (out of five)

Good value


Wild Rock Pania Hawkes Bay Chardonnay 2007

(about $21)

Ripe stonefruit with a hint of crème caramel and toasty nuts, an underlying suggestion of mineral and a crisp, lingering finish.

Two stars (out of five)

Average value


Barossa Valley Estates E Minor Barossa Chardonnay 2008

(about $22)

From Australia, this wine suggests tropical fruit with an underlying hint of mineral and warm rosemary, full in the mouth with a bright, crisp finish.

Three stars (out of five)

Poor value


Stoneleigh Rapaura Series Marlborough Chardonnay 2008

(about $27)

Oodles of zesty fruit, ripe peaches and melons, tropical fruit and even a suggestion of grapefruit are equalled by masses of nutty, toasty oak and a crisp, textural finish.

Three stars (out of five)

Poor value


Muddy Water Waipara Chardonnay 2007

(about $30)

A delicious, well-priced, well-balanced wine, fragrant with tropical fruit, honey and vanilla well integrated with undertones of toasted cashews and caramel, a creamy texture and long, crisp finish.

Four stars (out of five)

Good value


Morton Estate White Label Hawkes Bay Chardonnay 2007

(about $17)

Sweet fruit with a hint of spicy oak and nuttiness and a crisp finish.

Two stars (out of five)

Average value


Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all evaluation is subjective. charmian.smith@odt.co.nz

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