It is often said pinot noir is a wine of the heart, not the head. Line up 10 or 12 and taste them analytically, as I do for this column, and they will show not only their differences but often a gawkiness: excess oak, acidity, confected fruit, a slight under ripeness.
However, sit down with a glass of any one of them, preferably with good food and company, allow the wine its own space instead of comparing it with others, and it will charm you.
◊ BEST VALUE
(about $26)
I loved the mellowed, spicy oak and fruit, the layers of flavour, and the bright, taffeta-like texture of this wine.
Nicely balanced, complex and dry, with a long aftertaste that invites another sip, it's the best Triplebank have produced so far.
- Four stars (out of five)
- Good value
www.pernod-ricard-pacific.com//triplebank.php
(about $29)
Those who like pinot with some guts will enjoy this big, slightly extractive wine with full fruit supported by spicy oak hinting of coffee and chocolate, but not for those who prefer subtlety.
- Three stars (out of four)
- Average value
(about $33)
A rich, confident young wine, with oodles of ripe dark fruit which stands up to the big, spicy oak supporting it, is lightened by a hint of freshly baked biscuits and beeswax and a lively finish. Nicely balanced.
- Three stars (out of five)
- Below average value
(about $34)
The beautiful purity of fruit shines through this lively wine.
It suggests cherryplums with a hint of pepper, and is supported by spicy oak and a crisp bright finish.
Give it a little longer to develop more depth and complexity.
- Three stars (out of five)
- Below average value
(about $33)
A mouthfilling wine with oodles of ripe raspberries and boysenberries bolstered by underlying savoury flavours and toasty oak, finishes with a crisp, tingly aftertaste.
- Three stars (out of five)
- Below average value
(about $40)
A layered, textural wine, intense but balanced, with juicy fruit suggesting cherries and plums, a hint of mineral and a firm dry finish and lingering aftertaste.
Perhaps a bit more forward and integrated than some of the others.
- Four stars (out of five)
- Average value
~ ANOTHER GLASS ~
Main Divide Tipinui Selection Marlborough Pinot Noir 2007
(about $33)
A brooding, mouthfilling wine with lots of fruit and spicy oak, suggestions of mineral, marmite, beeswax and coffee grounds, and a lively finish.
For those who like bigger pinots.
- Three stars (out of five)
- Below average value
Jackson Estate Gum Emperor Marlborough Pinot Noir 2007
(about $60)
A flagship pinot, this is a charming, silky-textured wine with attractive hints of cherry supported by well-balanced oak and a hint of chocolate on the finish. Delicious.
- Four stars (out of five)
- Below average value
Two stars - simple, clean, enjoyable wine; three stars - good wine with varietal characteristics; four stars - very good wine with some outstanding characteristics; five stars - outstanding wine with balance and harmony that leaves you with a sense of wonder.
Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine tasting and evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations.
