In the case of Coal Pit and Rockburn, these are barrel selections from their Gibbston and Parkburn vineyards: Coal Pit could well have used the Rockburn moniker as it is from their best 7 Barrels.
With Chard Farm we go to the intricasies and complexities of their individual vineyard sites and I’ve thrown in an older bottle for comparison. This last was sent in error a couple of years ago; I held it back for just such an occasion. Enjoy!
2021 Chard Farm Viper Vineyard Parkburn Pinot Noir
Rating Outstanding
Intrigue, a hint of
wildness (in a nice way),
spices, lead pencil,
smoke, fragrant florality.
Not a fruit bomb, driven
by complexity. Finer
boned yet deceptive
power lurking, red fruits,
savoury, wild herb
nuances, great grip and
structure backing it all
up, long, long finish.
Vibrant, composed,
elegant, doesn’t "hang it
all out there" but seek
this and you’ll be
rewarded.
2021 Chard Farm The Tiger Lowburn Pinot Noir
Rating Outstanding
Bonfire embers,
smoke, shifting to
perfume (violets?), the
nose a whisper tight.
The palate shifts gear,
a lovely, brambly wild
herb influence meets
youthful fruit, silky
mouthfeel, really fine-
grained tannins, bright
acidity lending
freshness. Classy and
elegant, dancing in the
mouth as the palate
develops a tingly
brightness, the tannins
a corset. Long, dry
close, serious stuff.
2019 Coal Pit The Leo Barrel Selection Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Sweet fruit, showing the
first hints of
development. Steely,
minerally, a wisp of
warm leather, lifted
perfume. Again, ripely
fruited, expressed in
richness rather than
‘sweetness’, developing
a cooling almost minty
herb quality, before the
engagingly long fruit-
filled close. A quiet
sumptousness, again
development, the
structure building.
Complex and
fascinating.
2022 Rockburn Eleven Barrels Parkburn Vineyard Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Youthful cherry and
raspberry lead, dusty
elements the first hints
of savoury nuances.
Creamy, silky entry,
bright ripe fruit, spices,
baking spices, a nutty
bittersweet note adds
contrast. A grainy
touch to the texture
framing the lovely,
long spice inflected
close. Not totally
coming out to play
today but the
ingredients are there
for the future.
2018 Chard Farm Viper Vineyard Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Colour shift. Perfumed,
showing signs of
secondary notes,
leather, dustiness,
earthy tones, umami
characters, tar and
roses with time. Silky,
bright, vibrant, driven
by complexity rather
than fruit per se, though
the fruit is clearly there.
A warm glow on the
close as the tannins
kick in, the acidity more
evident, in a nice place
to enjoy, likely some
potential too.
2022 Rockburn Twelve Barrels Gibbston Pinot Noir
Rating Outstanding
Youthful and fragrant
nose, cranberry and
cooler fruits, minerally,
schisty, very attractive,
perfume and dustiness
later. Ripely fruited,
lighter bodied with an
ethereal quality; under
that poise surprising
depth. Fresh, cool, an
almost crunchy quality,
nicely balanced
tannins & acidity,
flowing to a long, long
close. Quietly wins you
over and draws you
back for more.
2021 Chard Farm Eliza Vineyard Bannockburn Pinot Noir
Rating Very Good to Excellent
Gunflint, struck match,
graphite, pencil
shavings, an umami
quality. That reductive
character carries
through the wine
keeping this relatively
tight and firm for now.
The fruit a backdrop,
the acidity driving the
wine, feels like it needs
time to flesh out. Loved
the ’20 of this, but this
is standoffish and hard
to judge today, it is
crying out for time.
2021 Chard Farm Mason Vineyard Parkburn Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Umami qualities, river
stones, a darker, more
brooding aspect, spiced
fruit nicely supporting
this, building perfume as
it opens. Plays that
knife-edge ripeness
card so well, ripe, rich
yet not at all ‘sweet’.
Graphite, earthy
touches, super tannic
backbone begins to
strut its stuff. Fine,
elegant, approachability,
yet there’s more to
come here with time.
