I have my favourites, whether through subjectivity or objectivity it’s hard to say. In Chard Farm’s case the four wines are all the winemaker’s babies — he loves them all I’m sure — but grudgingly if pressed, does he have a favourite?
Hard to say?
2022 Chard Farm Hawkesbury Vineyard Bannockburn Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Fine, elegant nose,
more about pinosity
than bombast, earthy,
savoury, spice and
wild herbs, fresh and
fragrant. Spices and
fruit sweetness lead
the palate, earthy
qualities like the nose,
a hint of a bittersweet
quality leading to a
nicely savoury close.
If you’re after a fruit
bomb look away, this
plays the elegance
cards from the deck.
2022 Carrick The Magnetic Organic Bannockburn Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Again tilled earth, wisps
of humus and wildness
meet the fruit, a bigger
shouldered wine, though
a whisper tight on the
nose, fleeting glimpses
of what is to come.
Blueberry, lead pencil,
savoury aspects, a
brooding quality, then
tangy brightness on the
close. This unfurls
perceptively with air,
now youthfully juicy,
beginning to strut its
stuff as it comes on
strong.
2022 Chard Farm Mason Vineyard Parkburn Pinot Noir
Rating Outstanding
Finely poised, earth
and savoury notes the
theme of the day, here
joined by perfume and
florality, wild thyme
and sweet fruit grow
with air. The texture a
winner here, silky,
velvety, a quiet
richness and depth
that draws you in, the
fruit ripe yet not
‘sweet’ flowing to a
long, dry close, the
tannic backbone now
more to the fore. The
flavours just hang in
the mouth.
2022 Chard Farm The Tiger Lowburn Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Opens to a little funky
touch, rose petal
florality takes over,
spicy oak notes come
into play too, red
fruited, savoury, bright,
fresh. Nice energy and
brightness, the red
fruits filling every
corner of the mouth,
this feels alive. First
impressions are of a
finer-boned style but
there’s actually
deceptive power in
those fine tannins and
excellent carry of
flavour.
2023 Mt Difficulty Bannockburn Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
A brooding quality to
the nose, spicy oak,
polish, orange zest,
rich fruit simmering
away in support, wild
thyme sweeps in
with aeration. A
bigger style, chewy,
generosity of
ingredient, oak
influences meet dark
cherry, a wine that
has Central Otago
writ large on it. With
air a tangy, herbal
character reveals
itself, adding extra
freshness.
2022 Chard Farm Viper Vineyard Parkburn Pinot Noir
Rating Outstanding
An immediately
beguiling nose,
florality, fragrance,
spices, red fruits, oak
nuances, savoury
aspects, complex and
fine. The palate initially
tauter, all about the
spice and savoury
notes and the long dry
close. Air time brings a
fresh, tangy piquancy,
tea leaf and tobacco
echoing on the close,
growing in power and
volume into something
quite complete.
