As the locals say, it’s the Green behind the Gold, a lush high-country wonderland of rainforests, characterful mountain villages and boutique treats.
If you’re in need of a breather from the theme park thrills, savour the majesty of Tamborine Mountain, just a 40-minute drive inland from the coast. The abundance of walking trails enrobe you in Australia’s ancient Gondwana rainforests, a canopied world of filtered light and dappled greens brimming with palms, strangler figs, epiphytes and curling vines.
A quick 10-minute stroll through lush rainforest brings you to Curtis Falls, which flows into Cedar Creek and its spectacular cascades and swimming holes. With a Disney-like drop into a rockpool, before tumbling over basalt boulders, Curtis Falls is the only fall that can be viewed from its base.
Speaking of Cedar Creek, I took the opportunity to admire the brand-new glamping option that has been unfurled at Cedar Creek Lodges. Wrapped in rainforest, with adventure activities, premium dining and luxuries at hand, the new Woodland Tents raise the bar on rustic luxury, complete with wide-screen TV, BBQ, fire-pit, king-sized beds, along with a private ensuite and outdoor shower.
I also ventured to the Tamborine Rainforest Skywalk, another glorious way to bask in the brilliance of the forest finery. Relax, refresh, inhale.
Established by the Moore family 13 years ago, elevated steel walkways zip you through the upper canopy of the forest, combined with trails through the forest floor. Accentuating the experience, the Eco Gallery serves up an insightful array of flora and fauna displays, there’s a local history enclosure, a butterfly lookout and indulgent on-site cafe and giftshop.
But the runaway highlight of the Skywalk is the 40m-long cantilever bridge that juts out into the heart of the forest, 30m above Cedar Creek. The lookout vividly illustrates how nature is locked in a constant tug of war between the giant flooded gum trees of the Eucalypt forest and the sub-tropical rainforest. Strangler Figs are the rainforest’s front-line soldiers, leading the charge against the invasive gums, by growing on top of them and strangling them.
Stop by Hang Gliders Lookout, where adrenalin-junkies hurl themselves off the plateau’s grassy ledge for their 500m descent into the Scenic Rim below. I can’t say I have ever felt the urge. For a sizzling vista back to the coast, head to Eagle’s Nest, where on a clear day, the Surfers Paradise high rises and sandy beaches shimmer on the horizon. The grand old homes around Eagle’s Nest are drop-dead gorgeous.
I loved lingering in the Tamborine tourist hub of Gallery Walk, with its abundance of craft shops, art galleries, superb boutique wineries and eateries. Don’t miss the myriad of flavoured fudge at Granny Macs Fudge Store — more than 40 flavours in the range!
If you’re up for some wine tasting, you’ve got a wealth of options necklacing the mountain including the truly charming affair at Witches Falls Winery. (Yes, these are some nearby falls of that name, inspired by local children, who thought the forest branches looked like witches' brooms.)
Like many Tamborine Mountain winemakers, this family operation source premium grapes from Stanthorpe, on the Granite Belt, four hours west of the Gold Coast. Jon and Kim Heslop’s inaugural vintage was in 2004 and Witches Falls is now one of Queensland’s largest wine producers, with all products made on-site at Tamborine Mountain. Traditional techniques are combined with some of the most modern and advanced practices to produce wines of exceptional quality, character and consistency.
A wild-fermented wine uses native yeasts that are found on the fruit and in the vineyard, rather than cultured yeasts. By allowing nature to weave more of its spontaneous magic, wild ferments lend themselves to more dynamic flavours. It’s hospitality-plus at Witches Falls — you’re very welcome to bring your own picnic blanket and laze on the lovely vine-wreathed grounds. It’s a great place to loll about with a cheeky glass or two.
For a complete palette change, pop into Tamborine Mountain Distillery, an iconic powerhouse of fine liqueurs and spirits, which has seen them scoop over 300 national and international awards since opening nearly 30 years ago. They are Australia’s most decorated distillery this century.
Given the boom in boutique distilleries, these guys were light years ahead of the curve, where production methods are steeped in tradition. Utilising a range of specialised copper pots and reflux stills to create their sublime range of spirits and tinctures, you can now go behind the scenes of this working craft distillery to see first-hand the production process. The jovial distillery boss, Gordon Chalmers, happily shares his passion and pride in the distillery.
The wickedly inventive flavour range seemingly knows no bounds, from Ginger Vodka and Turkish Delight Liqueur to Pineapple Rum and Davidson Plum Gin. I enjoyed a tasting flight and was struck by their selection of cellos — not to be confused by the musical instrument of the same name. Their Limoncello Liqueur is particularly zesty and Gordon remarked that most Limoncellos only contain 3% lemon juice. Tamborine Mountain Distillery ramps that up to a staggering 36%!
Peckish? I’m a walkover for big, slobbery dogs and as the previous owner of a big St Bernard, I felt duty bound to pop into St Bernards Hotel, where Molly and Syrah are on paw patrol at the front door. Located on the escarpment overlooking Guanaba Gorge, this historic hotel has been welcoming guests and diners for over a century. It’s a popular lunch spot and the Guinness Pie is a perennial favourite.
The self-contained cottages weren’t affected and remain a beloved roost on the mountain. Designed to share a slice of Ania’s homeland, the business has roared back into life and the restaurant was bustling when I popped in for lunch, where Ania can still be found in the kitchen, overseeing her magnificent Polish culinary delights. The signature dish, roast duck for two, is made the traditional Polish way, stuffed with Granny Smith apples and served with red cabbage, fried apple and cherry sauce. The pork hock is slow cooked and in keeping with tradition comes with beer and garlic butter. Then there is pierogi, Polish dumplings, with meat, sauerkraut and mushroom, or cheese and potatoes. Delicious!
Beautifully furnished with Polish decor, the delightful waiting staff are immaculately attired in traditional Polish dress, while the stunning views over the Great Dividing Range are dreamy. Don’t make my mistake and be sure to actively shoo away the local rainbow lorikeets from carrying out a mob attack of your table!
