Ready to tackle toughest climb

Dunedin free-climber Jonathon Clearwater has won an AMP Scholarship which will allow him to climb...
Dunedin free-climber Jonathon Clearwater has won an AMP Scholarship which will allow him to climb the father of all rock faces, El Capitan, in the United States. He is pictured climbing in the Darran Mountains, Fiordland. Photo by Derek Thatcher.
Jonathon Clearwater has completed some of the hardest rock climbs in New Zealand and Australia.

Now, the Dunedin free-climber has his ropes at the ready to tackle one of the world's most challenging rock faces - El Capitan.

For the past 13 years, Dr Clearwater (29) has dreamed of climbing the granite monolith - affectionately known by experienced climbers as "El Cap" - and after winning a $10,000 AMP Scholarship in Wellington last night, that dream has become reality.

El Capitan is a 1000m vertical rock formation in the Yosemite National Park in the United States and is one of the most challenging rock faces in the world for climbers.

Dr Clearwater will be the first New Zealander to make the free-climb, and by doing so, he hopes to help put Kiwis on the world map for rock climbing.

He estimated the climb would take about 10 days.

As well as hauling himself up, he will have to carry food and water for 10 days.

At night, he will sleep in a suspended portaledge - a stretcher-like contraption fixed to the rock wall to form a sleeping platform.

Dr Clearwater was "stoked" with the scholarship and was excited by the challenge ahead.

He has already begun a strenuous training regime in preparation for his adventure next April.

"Yosemite Valley is the centre of the rock-climbing universe.

"It is the place where the best climbers in the world go to prove themselves, and free-climbing a route on El Cap is the ultimate test of all-round rock-climbing skill. Very few people have succeeded in this feat, and no Kiwi has even attempted it. I aim to be the first."

While many climbers developed their early skills at indoor gyms, Dr Clearwater said he learned to climb at the base of an alpine rock face in the Southern Alps.

He has completed some of the hardest rock climbs in New Zealand, and in the Karakorum Mountains in Pakistan he established a new route up a 2000m high alpine ridge-line near the Trango Glacier.

He is known for making the first ascent of Eagle Rocks Licking Wounds in New South Wales - perhaps the hardest traditionally protected climb in Australia or New Zealand.

He was named New Zealand Mountaineer of the Year in 2006.

When he is not dangling by his finger-tips on rock faces, he works as a post-doctoral researcher at the University of Otago psychology department and a systems analyst at the National Energy Research Institute.

He has produced a documentary film, published articles in NZ Climber magazine, the Alpine Club Journal and Australian Rock magazine, and also speaks on the environmental aspects of alpine climbing.

Dr Clearwater intends to bring his honed skills back to New Zealand to teach and mentor young climbers.

The judging panel said it was difficult to go past someone like Jonathon Clearwater.

"He's truly accomplished with a PhD in theoretical physics, an award winning documentary film to his name, documented writer and speaker, not to mention an acclaimed mountaineer."

Last night's award ceremony, in which Prime Minister John Key presented 12 scholarships for 2009, means AMP has now helped 100 New Zealanders realise their dreams.

 

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