Single vineyard wines impress like traditional forebears

If you follow the Burgundian pinot noir model, then the very finest vineyard sites have proved themselves over hundreds of years, designated Grand Crus or Premier Crus.

We don’t have that history in New Zealand but there are clearly many wines from a single site or vineyard that proudly denote their place of origin.

Six stunning wines today: three each from two different producers from single sites in Earnsleugh, Gibbston, Bannockburn and Lowburn.

Perhaps the most profound contrast was the Sabines Selection by Burn Cottage off a section of clay soils in their vineyard, yet so different from its stablemate.

Sourcing these may be easiest direct from the vineyards, though a handful of specialty retailers may be able to source them.

2022 Two Paddocks Proprietor’s Reserve The Last Chance Earnscleugh Pinot Noir 

 
Price RRP $105
Rating Excellent to Outstanding   
 
Dusty, spicy, 
savoury qualities, 
red fruits, pencil 
lead, a swelling, 
beguiling perfume, a 
wisp of gunflint and 
bramble later. Fine 
in the mouth with 
tannic structure to 
burn, a marriage of 
ripe red fruits and 
earthy qualities on a 
savoury backdrop, 
elegant and nicely 
composed with a 
long, long dry close. 
Lovely persistence 
and a little intrigue 
to keep you coming 
back for more.
 
 

2022 Burn Cottage Burn Cottage Vineyard Central Otago Pinot Noir 

  
Price RRP $90
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
 
A beautifully 
perfumed top note, 
almost musky, almost 
fruit sherbet, wisps of 
wild herb and earth, 
complex and 
engaging. Depth 
without weight, super 
fine tannins, growing 
and swelling, 
revealing its youthfully 
sweet fruit. An earthy/
mushroomy aspect to 
the nose now, 
cranberry, freshness 
and juiciness, the 
flavours hanging in 
the mouth. A wine to 
ponder.
 
 

2022 Burn Cottage Sabines Selection Lowburn Pinot Noir 

 
Price RRP $125
Rating Outstanding 
 
Smoke, bonfire 
embers, wild herb, 
wild rose florals, 
cherry and red 
berryfruits, totally 
beguiling, cigar box/
tobacco later. A step 
up in power and 
depth, yet not at all 
overstated, silky, 
taffeta texture, 
cranberry, red fruits, 
spicy qualities 
lingering through to 
the close. Elegance 
and depth, great 
structure, a stony 
nuance appears, 
cardamom. A peacock’s tail of flavour 
on the finish. Superb.
 
 

2021 Two Paddocks Proprietor’s Reserve The Last Chance Earnscleugh Pinot Noir 

 
Price RRP $105
Rating Excellent to Outstanding 
 
Fascinating nose, 
initially char, smoke 
and humus, moving to 
flower petal florals, 
perfume and umami 
notes, lots going on. 
The savoury qualities a 
core to the palate, 
brooding depth, earth, 
pencil shavings, a 
touch of wildness and 
intrigue with chewy 
grip that leaves you 
salivating. Wonderful 
flavour persistence, 
balance and 
integration, draws you 
back for another glass.
 
 

2022 Burn Cottage Sauvage Vineyard Bannockburn Pinot Noir 

 
Price RRP $90
Rating Outstanding  
 
Dark fruited richness 
on the nose, melded 
with spices, earth, 
humus and savoury 
nuances, growing 
florality with air. Fine 
silky palate envelops 
the mouth, the spice 
and savoury 
elements a backdrop 
to the lovely depth of 
plummy fruit. 
Vibrancy and 
energy, fine, chewy 
grip reminds you of 
its presence and the 
potential of the wine, 
yet this is already so 
appealing in its 
youth.
 

 

2022 Two Paddocks Proprietor’s Reserve The First Paddock Gibbston Pinot Noir 

 
Price RRP $105
Rating Outstanding  
 
Brooding, dark, savoury, 
slate/stony minerality, a 
sense of power, the fruit 
supporting the whole. 
Powerful in the mouth, 
chewy, almost grainy 
tannins, ripe fruit yet 
quite dry. Thrilling 
intensity and depth that 
speaks of the future, or 
calls for food now. 
Serious intent, 
complexity, great lip-
smacking sapidity 
(savoury/saline), super-
long finish. Utterly 
fascinating and 
compelling wine.