If you follow the Burgundian pinot noir model, then the very finest vineyard sites have proved themselves over hundreds of years, designated Grand Crus or Premier Crus. We don’t have that history in New Zealand but there are clearly many wines from a single site or vineyard that proudly denote their place of origin. Six stunning wines today: three each from two different producers from single sites in Earnsleugh, Gibbston, Bannockburn and Lowburn. Perhaps the most profound contrast was the Sabines Selection by Burn Cottage off a section of clay soils in their vineyard, yet so different from its stablemate. Sourcing these may be easiest direct from the vineyards, though a handful of specialty retailers may be able to source them. 2022 Two Paddocks Proprietor’s Reserve The Last Chance Earnscleugh Pinot Noir Price RRP $105 Rating Excellent to Outstanding Dusty, spicy, savoury qualities, red fruits, pencil lead, a swelling, beguiling perfume, a wisp of gunflint and bramble later. Fine in the mouth with tannic structure to burn, a marriage of ripe red fruits and earthy qualities on a savoury backdrop, elegant and nicely composed with a long, long dry close. Lovely persistence and a little intrigue to keep you coming back for more. www.twopaddocks.com 2022 Burn Cottage Burn Cottage Vineyard Central Otago Pinot Noir Price RRP $90 Rating Excellent to Outstanding A beautifully perfumed top note, almost musky, almost fruit sherbet, wisps of wild herb and earth, complex and engaging. Depth without weight, super fine tannins, growing and swelling, revealing its youthfully sweet fruit. An earthy/ mushroomy aspect to the nose now, cranberry, freshness and juiciness, the flavours hanging in the mouth. A wine to ponder. www.burncottage.com 2022 Burn Cottage Sabines Selection Lowburn Pinot Noir Price RRP $125 Rating Outstanding Smoke, bonfire embers, wild herb, wild rose florals, cherry and red berryfruits, totally beguiling, cigar box/ tobacco later. A step up in power and depth, yet not at all overstated, silky, taffeta texture, cranberry, red fruits, spicy qualities lingering through to the close. Elegance and depth, great structure, a stony nuance appears, cardamom. A peacock’s tail of flavour on the finish. Superb. www.burncottage.com 2021 Two Paddocks Proprietor’s Reserve The Last Chance Earnscleugh Pinot Noir Price RRP $105 Rating Excellent to Outstanding Fascinating nose, initially char, smoke and humus, moving to flower petal florals, perfume and umami notes, lots going on. The savoury qualities a core to the palate, brooding depth, earth, pencil shavings, a touch of wildness and intrigue with chewy grip that leaves you salivating. Wonderful flavour persistence, balance and integration, draws you back for another glass. www.twopaddocks.com 2022 Burn Cottage Sauvage Vineyard Bannockburn Pinot Noir Price RRP $90 Rating Outstanding Dark fruited richness on the nose, melded with spices, earth, humus and savoury nuances, growing florality with air. Fine silky palate envelops the mouth, the spice and savoury elements a backdrop to the lovely depth of plummy fruit. Vibrancy and energy, fine, chewy grip reminds you of its presence and the potential of the wine, yet this is already so appealing in its youth. www.burncottage.com 2022 Two Paddocks Proprietor’s Reserve The First Paddock Gibbston Pinot Noir Price RRP $105 Rating Outstanding Brooding, dark, savoury, slate/stony minerality, a sense of power, the fruit supporting the whole. Powerful in the mouth, chewy, almost grainy tannins, ripe fruit yet quite dry. Thrilling intensity and depth that speaks of the future, or calls for food now. Serious intent, complexity, great lip- smacking sapidity (savoury/saline), super- long finish. Utterly fascinating and compelling wine. www.twopaddocks.com
