WINE REVIEWS: Bigger not always better

Sometimes wines are just too big and extractive for enjoyment, and a lighter, more lively wine brings more pleasure, like the delightful Pete's Shed syrah.

◊ BEST UNDER $20
Pete's Shed Guinea Pig Block Tempranillo 2008
($19.95)

Pete's Shed is a new range from Yealands in the Awatere Valley.

This tempranillo (a Spanish variety) may be lightish in colour but the flavours suggesting red fruit with a hint of dark chocolate, savoury undertones and firm but lively finish give it charm.

A versatile food wine, especially for Mediterranean influenced food.

- Three stars (out of five)

- Average value

www.yealands.co.nz


Muddy Water Deliverance Red Table Wine 2008
(about $15)

A blend of pinotage and syrah from Waipara, this red is peppery with a hint of spice and earthiness, and a crisp, slightly edgy finish.

- Two stars (out of five)

- Average value

www.muddywater.co.nz


Wyndham Bin 555 Shiraz 2007
(about $17, but often discounted)

A big-volume Australian shiraz with a suggestion of sweet fruit, a hint of jam and a firmish finish.

Not as hard and extractive as some other big-volume Australian reds.

- Two stars (out of five)

- Average value

www.wyndhamesatate.com


Saint Clair Pioneer Block 17 Bay Block Hawkes Bay Syrah 2007
(about $33)

Saint Clair, known for its superb Marlborough whites, is now producing some reds from Hawkes Bay.

This oozes spicy, toasted oak which at present dominates the fruit.

For those who like oaky wines, but a bit like chewing a mantelpiece for those who don't.

However, a few more months may bring it back into balance

- Three stars (out of five)

- Below average value

www.saintclair.co.nz


Corbans Cottage Block Hawkes Bay Syrah 2007
(about $39)

Perfumed with dark berry fruit, black pepper and a hint of dark chocolate, this rich wine is firmly structured, dense and concentrated, but shows the charming purity of fruit typical of Hawkes Bay syrah.

- Four stars (out of five)

- Below average value

www.corbans.co.nz


Craggy Range Le Sol Hawkes Bay 2007
(about $90)

One of the flagship syrahs from Hawkes Bay, this is fragrant with hints of chocolate, spice, concentrated with rich, ripe, blackberry fruit, spicy oak and a long, firm but supple finish.

It may be supercharged with all stops out, but it also manages to remain in beautiful balance, with both generosity and a certain elegance, making it attractive to drink now, but also gives it the potential to develop with age.

- Five stars (out of five)

- Below average value

www.craggyrange.com


Two stars - simple, clean, enjoyable wine; three stars - good wine with varietal characteristics; four stars - very good wine with some outstanding characteristics; five stars - outstanding wine with balance and harmony that leaves you with a sense of wonder.



Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine tasting and evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations.

charmian.smith@odt.co.nz


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